Riding from Hanoi to Babe Lake to Moe Vac

The ride out of Hanoi was uneventful other than me keep stopping by the side of the road to check navigation making sure I was heading the right way. Chaotic motobike driving in Hanoi City was not really that dificult and did not feel chaotic at all.

I took the most direct route to Babe Lake and that still took about 6 hours of constant riding with minimal stops for rest. The ride was relaxing and also easy which was good to get myself more familiar and used to Zuki. By the time I was upon Ba Be Lake, the start offroad riding due to bad road construction was a peice of cake.

Near Babe Lake 

Babe Lake 

I stay at one of the local homestay (Huyenhao) booked online along the way on one of the rest stop when I was pretty sure I would make it on time. Homestay was really authentic and not those weird homestay which turns out to be a hotel wannabe establishment. 

Dinner was at at the homestay with them cooking up a dish on the spot. The agreed price was 120,000 dong for dinner and 50,000 dong for breakfast.

Lovely wooden room Homestay

The Homestay Authentic Kitchen 

The next day after breakfast I push on for Moe Vac. Babe Lake to Moe Vac ride was more interesting that expected. I decided to just follow google going for the shortest route instead of going through the big sideloop using the main road and in a way defected from following the recommended bike trail which every tour agency recommends.

I end up in a very small road in google maps that without zooming in one would not even see the road. The scenery was supprisingly great and unexpectedly raw that there is no convinient coffee stand at the best view point or even food for lunch or reststop.

Riding Round Babe Lake

Puong Cave 

H8 Countryside road 

This was really a countryside road which the locals used for their daily lives. The plantation fields were all bare since most of the rice fields had been harvest so it was not very pretty but as I go up higher and higher one could see how scenic this place was even on a off season.

The roads were horrible thou, no tarmac at all and mostly form of compacted gravel and stones. Riding was really slow going, but at the halfway mark the road merge back with QL 34 main road to Moe Vac.

Gravel Road Up & Downhill the countryside mountain 

I tot the hard part done and now that it was good road or rather better roads, I decided to book the hostel in Moe Vac. An hour later I came across a landslide. Main road was totally blocked off and there was a worker closing off the road for the excavator to poke the slope and somehow try to stabalize the landslide.

An unknown wait I guess but at the same time I saw some of the local bikes u-turn and head down a narrow path which seams to be a bypass only navigatable by bike. The path look more dificult than I was confortable but a few moments later a jeep turn up and four police / military guys came out.

Landslide QL 34

Motorbike Landslide By-Pass going through shallow streams 

Motorbike Landslide Bypass - Bamboo Bridge 

They asked me something in Vietnamese but I just raise my hands and shoulders giving the body languege that I have no idea. I had my helmet on and mask on so with only the eyes behind my glasses I probabaly look like a local.

I was not about to risk it and acting as natural as posibble, mounted Zuki and make a U-Turn getting far away from the Police Car. It was time to go through the by-pass. Go down the slope was not too bad but then there was a local toll. 

A young boy with a string trying to collect VND 10,000 per bike. My languege barrier did not help and they were smart enaugh to show me the money with a big grin. I gave up the extorted toll fee and moved on.

So the by-pass which I could not see before the Toll had a shallow river crossing and also a bamboo bridge crossing. Zuki just became a dirt bike and I was really sceptical on the bamboo bridge. 

As some scooters could ride through the bridge, I guess there was only one way to go as U-turn would be worst trying to go back up the narrow steep slope entrance. Mini adventure and I completed the by-pass of landslide and on my way again to Moe Vac with many mandatory stops to soak in the beautiful scenery.

I ended up in Moe Vac after sundown. Not my intention really but timing the ride seams to be harder in Vietnam without knowing the road conditions.

Traveled on: Dec 2023

To Hanoi & Renting a Bike for a Vietnam Adventure

From Mong Cai I took the bus to Hanoi which unexpectedly was a sleeper bus. It cost me RMB120, I decided to pay in RMB since I did not have enaugh Vietnamese dong and did not want to use up any of the emergency USD at this point. 

I got the whole sleeper bunk to myself but looking across, apparently the sleeper bunk is meant for two people. 5 hours journey from Mong Cai to Hanoi and I mostly slept all the way due to the crazy drivers that rock the bus like a boat making me feel naucious the whole journey.

Sleeper Bus from Mong Cai to Hanoi 

Bus arrived in Hanoi and it was as usual ... far far away from any downtown walkable service. The bus did not even stopped at a proper bus stop but some out district at the backstreet. Luckily once at the proximity of Hanoi, I started checking prices on Grab and so long the bus inches closer towards Hanoi Old town, I did not really care so long as it goes inwards.

Old Quarter Hanoi

Old Quarter Hanoi 

Far Far away from downtown but not far enaugh that a Taxi would be a pain. Checking Grab, I had a motortaxi or taxi option. Knowing Old Town Hanoi is a big sprawling ant maze that cars going in would probably be a nightmare, I choose the cheapest and also most fun option, Mototaxi. Price was roughly USD 2 for the 9km ride.

It was definately a fun option and in rush hour too. While I wanted to whip out my phone and do some live recording, I kept my hand firmly on the balancer grip and just have to enjoy the ride. Old quarter dont seam to change much, looking the same as I remember it back in 2016 when I took mom and dad for a vacation.

Having arrive around evening in the hostel I could not wait much longer and dumping bags, I made my way to Styles Motorbike shop to enquire for bike rental. I did my homework mostly online while in China and was more or less set with one of the Big Names for rental agency in Vietnam.

Styles was more or less strightforward and after talking to the guys a bit on bike type and rules and regulation concerning rental and price process, it was decision time. In short, I confirmed the Suzuki GD 110 which would be rented for one month (30) days for the price of USD 250 with add on of damage waiver USD 35 and refundable deposit of USD 500.

I paid the USD 500 deposit immediately but considered paying the rest the next day in Vietnamese Dong so I could hold on to the balance dollar. That was the mistake. Rental bike booked, it was time for dinner but I took a walk ,,,, a long walk that subconciously I knew I was on my way to the Casino.

A Little Walk Around Hanoi 

A Little Walk Around Hanoi

Hanoi Train Market 

I should have had Dinner first, or buy a sim card or get a massage, but I went to the casino first. Played mostly Video Blackjack but that night from 6pm to 11pm I lost a total of USD 400 but at least I got free dinner, a few beers, tea, Ciggy, lighter and fruits for free .... sorry USD 400.

First Night in Hanoi and I feel that the bike became so expensive in rental.

The next day in Hanoi was spend mostly on chores.

1. Find ATM with minimal fees to withdraw money
2. Pay Bike Rental ( The day before was only the deposit)
3. Buy a Luggage Rain Cover
4. Buy Sim Card
5. Track down that rare Tobacco Shop and stock up.
6. Bought Gloves for Riding
7. Get a massage to decompress.

It as an expensive day for sure and a hit to the wallet. Still that helped me punch my self to the gut and prevented a second night attempt at the casino. Somehow manage to protect the USD 140 I had left.

My Ride for Vietnam - Suzuki GD 110 aka Zuki

Off to a Good Start 

The third day morning in Hanoi I picked up the bike. Suzuki GD110 BLACK. Almost named the bike blacki but change it to Zuki. Zuki would be my companion for the month in Vietnam. It was time to ride and after much contemplation on the routes to take base on advise from Styles owner the day before, I decided to punch the overdrive and do the long loop trying to see as many things as possible.

Traveled on: Dec 2023

Litttle Beihai

Beihai was a nice supprise. My initial thoughts were a small town base on the map size and description of low population. Turns out the scale was wrong in my head and Beihai was quite a big place that walking around wont cut it.

Beihai

Beihai

Luckily I found the Hostel that was in a neighbourhood district but seams more decent that a smoking hostel. Althought a bit far away from the main downtown, I still went there by bus as the booking site showed photos of electric bike which gave me an idea that they would rent it. 

As I ask the hostel girl (quite a cute one as well) , it was RMB 25 for the day. Quite hard to say No to that and Beihai exploration was set.

Electric Bike Rental in Beihai Hostel 

I asked the girl to give me suggestion of where to go in Beihai. It’s a seaside city, with loads of seafood produce so as I roam around in the electric bike, it was quite a change in scenery compared to inland China.

Other than the fact that Beihai is so far out from any of the tourist trail, this place would be one of my favaruite in China. A relaxing seaside town that has everything to offer really. Great shopping malls, cheap seafood, scenic beach and old town that just draws in your time day after day.

Couples Taking Photographs at Beihai Old Town

Beihai Old Town Walking Street 

The real bonus was the Blue Luminous Beach at Beihai which is a rare sight and required a bit of luck. Thou I waited for the chance to see it, I did not have the luck while in Beihai to witness this sight.

Sunset at Beihai 

Sunset at Beihai 

At this point I was partially zoning out of China travel mindset and was really looking forward to the border crossing into Vietnam. The next leg of travel and new things to get acustom to. Vietnam was not really new since I’ve been there before but this time I would do it via rental of motorbike so the excitement did kick in a little.

Traveled on: Dec 2023

A forced stop in Zhanjiang with no Transport to Haikou

From Hailin I left for Haikou. Now that I think back, I should have stayed one more night in Hailin to chill. I left Hailin with the help of hotel reception calling me a colectivo taxi. I would never had manage to get it on my own and a private DIDI would cost me RMB 100 at least. 

The colectivo cost me RMB 30 and saved a bunch of time. Local bus thou cheap at RMB 15 was a pain in the ass for it took 2 hours and not knowing when it will arive by the roadside as well was a pain.

Waiting for the Train to Zhanjiang at Yangjiang Station 

To Haikou and Hainan Island that was the plan, however everything had to changed once I reach the train ticket office. Ticket officer told me there was no more ticket for today to Haikou from Zhanjiang. No more ticket for tomorrow either and no more ticket for the day after. All fully booked. This was a first encounter in China where trains were fully booked.

I was starting to wonder if Haikou was a bad idea since if it was so difficult to get there, I might really get stucked and possibily rush for time when my Visa runs out. Still train ride to Zhanjiang first and explore while I decide what to do. 

No trains to Haikou but there are busses and ferry. The journey would take me 6 hours by public transport and another 2 hours for navigating the unknown, so effectively a wasted day. Then there is another 8 hours journey from Haikou to Sanya Beach and similarly I would need to get back to Zhanjiang to continue journey west.

Sometimes the invisible force leads you along the path you must take and this time it is telling me to forgo Hainan Island and move on. 

Zhanjiang

Zhanjiang

Zhanjiang is a big city and boring to boot. Thou there is still some local sightseeing stuff like old town and beachside, the accessibility for a backpacking tourist is almost non-existance. Hotel was intriguing as well as there was no proper hostel around, I opt to go into a business hotel for RMB 90 instead of experiencing another smoking establishment.

After taking a local bus from the main train station in Zhanjiang which for some reason always seams to be quite a distance away from downtown in China cities, I had to still walk around 2km to the designated hotel.

The lady at the reception looked at me and was lost on what to do. Never had she encountered a forigner checking in. My question was mostly lost as she stared at me mouth wide open.

What is there to see in Zhanjiang ?

Chikan District - Zhanjiang

Chikan District - Zhanjiang

Chikan District - Zhanjiang

Chikan District - Zhanjiang

She had no idea, lost for words for a long time and after more careful probing asking her for where to eat instead of places to see, she manage to think of old town at Chikan district and a beachside park.

I didin think much of it, I knew Zhanjiang was going to be slow so I just followed her suggestion and after chucking bags in the room, went for a walk. Along the walk I secured the bus depot location and the price to Beihai for the next day. 

There was nothing much at this point, just walk around Zhanjiang for the day observing the people normal lives and enjoy the seaside view.

Zhanjiang Harbour Channel 

Traveled on: Dec 2023

Stumble Upon Hailin Island.

I had no real reason to visit Hailin Island nor do I had a real reason to visit Yangjiang. I was hammering my way west towards Vietnam. At this point there was not much info other than the map which was tempting me towards Hainan Island. Yangjiang was a break of the journey to make the train ride less than RMB 150 per way and total travelling hours less than 4 hours per day.

So I set my eyes on Yangjiang but when trying to find hotels in Yangjiang, I found many hotels in Hailin Island instead. The hotels were cheap too being around RMB 100 for a night but it was two double beds meaning it was RMB 100 for four person. I was only one but figured I could spend the money to see if it was really a hidden gem that not many tourist knows.

So I booked the Hotel, and then it was the journey from Yangjiang train station to Hailin Island. Public Bus No.18 was RMB 15 yuan to get to the island and somehow the hotel I book was at the wrong end of the Island. Not the main town part but the secluded beach part.

Hailin Island Seaside Resort

I figured that going to a secluded beach resort hotel is not so bad for RMB 100. hopefully there was some bycycle for rent and food. Drop off from the bus and this small island seams really deserted on the east side of the island. 4km walk to the resort and I tot I was somewhere in rural Laos. The resort turn out to be a private apartment with many of the units sub-contracted out to holiday apartment management which list them on booking sites.

Walking Through a small town in East Hailin Island 

RMB 100 for a Resort Hotel at Hailin Island 

Check in was easy enaugh but when I asked for possibility to extend the night, the place was fully book. It was either go around the resort to find another sub-contracted unit which there are many by the way but with no idea of how much per night they would charge. 

Going into the room, it was seriusly cheap for four people but I have to enjoy it myself I guess. I was really anticipating the seaside view but then realized I booked the garden view since it was the cheapest. Just another 10 yuan for a crazy view but I missed it.

Mahjong Game for Resort Passtime 

Hailin Island Resort

Next was food. Went down to check out the restaurants and all of them were filled with mahjong tables with many elderly fully engage in their game. No food, all restaurant was closed at 3pm ... and by evening just barely some food was available but with weird ordering system that I would not be able to dischipher.

This part of Hailin Island seam to be a like an old folks getaway resort as I notice many elderly just chilling and playing cards or mahjong among themself. Walking pass some open doors in the resort told me that most of them came with cooking ware too and was managing their food inside their rooms.

The next day I left the resort since it was fully booked and decided to give Hailin another chance by booking the hotel at downtown Hailin. No other way to get there, I booked a DIDI car for RMB 30 and it brought me from one end of the island to another.

Hailin Downtown. I could see the beach barely .... 

2nd Night in Hailin Downtown 

Downtown was definately more lively and food were readily available. If only I book here for the first night, I would have relax in Hailin proper instead of going from place to place everyday. At the hotel I got the seaview this time but it was not much of a view being blocked by other buildings in front. I could still see the sea barely.

I decided to ask the hotel if there was any bike for rent nearby. I ask the same thing the day before but the reply was no. Downtown I saw some bikes for rent but all the shop was closed and no one was around. The hotel guy said yep just across the street or I could rent from them also. The bargain begins at RMB 80 but I talked him down to RMB 60 for the day.

Electric Bike Rental for the Day in Hailin Island 

Armed with an electric bike now, Hailin Island seams like it wont be a waste. Within 15 minutes I was out the door zooming down the streets free to explore. Hailin Island really opened up for me this time and a hidden gem it was indeed.

Hailin Island dont seam to be a pure tourist island but rather it was a seafood farm with many fisheries around the harbour and many windmills along the hills to supply power. In a way the island does not rely on tourism but is slowly being promoted as a tourist spot by China goverment as it is quite scenic.

Hailin Island 

Hailin Island 

Hailin Island Map 

Hailin Island 

Hailin Island 

Hailin Island 

Resort sprouts could be seen along the island with some of them looking abandoned due to lack of tourist. Campervans could be seen along the beach where permitted and most of the tourist seam to arrive by bus to specific resort or by self drive. All tourist seam to be from local mainland China. I seam to be the crazy exception to this as the hotels I booked all had a confounded look when handling my passport.

Traveled on: Dec 2023