Border Crossing Belgrade to Sofia – Overnight Train

Although I just experience the lousy overnight train in Europe recently from Krakow to Budapest I was more or less force to do it again from Belgrade to Sofia. They had only two trains running per day. One in the morning and one at night and base on the internet advice, the trains would depart on time but arrival is a question mark.

Train Station in Belgrade

Figuring I do not want to arrive in Sofia in the middle of the morning I decided to get the night train instead … this time the sleeper coach was full hence I had to just get a seat.

Overnight Train from Belgrade to Sofia

The train ride turn out to be an adventure of sorts. Arriving at the train station I found the platform easy enough but it was surprisingly only a two carriage train. One carriage for sleeper class and another for seated. Upon boarding I notice a few backpackers already arguing with the locals for the seats.

Some had seats reservation and some did not. Most of the Locals did not have any seat reservation and was abusing the kind hearted backpackers which was mostly polite and confuse at the same time. Eventually thou all gloves was off and loud argument kicks in before the conductor reluctantly budge in.

I got to my compartment easy enough and was greeted by a single elderly lady in the whole compartment standing at the door blocking passage. To everyone passing by she was saying it is full and the people who booked the seats are coming. Ironically enough she said the same thing to me as well …. Eyebrow raised I double checked my ticket and it was clear I was in that compartment.

Peng I would call her for I now, let me in once she verified I was indeed in that compartment. She and her husband Milo was from South Africa and they were on a bicycle tour from starting from Europe. Milo was up front securing the bikes and making sure no jackass ran away with it while the train was still at the platform.

For a train that was so fully packed our compartment was the only one that was vastly empty. Peng keep blocking passage and not allowing anyone into the compartment. She whispered to me that Milo and her had booked four seats in that compartment although there was only two of them successfully blocking out poor people outside from having a free seat.

This I need to explain which is a bit complicated in Europe for first timers. There is a ticket for travelling on the train and then there is a ticket for seat reservation. The first is a must for travel but does not ensure a seat or even a place on the train. First come first serve basis and people crowded the train like crazy everywhere along the corridors, toilets, any space they could find. The second ensures a place either a seat or a bunk bed and Milo Peng had found a way to cheat the system. I thought for a moment did I somehow ended up in India without knowing ??? would I see people on the roof of the train when I wake up?

Buying only two ticket for travelling for both of them and paying for 4 seat reservation they were ensuring they had two seats to sleep comfortably instead of sleeping upright. The irony of it is that the second ticket, the seat reservation ticket only cost 3 euro per seat …. Peanut to those who have money I might think when in the Balkans.

So not surprising that Peng was trying her best to prevent people without any seat reservation from taking up free seats. Inconsiderate you might call it but I guess it was fair game and I stayed away from the argument. After all I would be happy to not have any dodgy character in the compartment. Peng did however gave in to a Dutch girl backpacker and gave her one seat in our compartment … Daviela.

Then the last of the last Teodora from Bulgaria came, check the window and was about to come in before Peng on auto pilot said that the cabin was full. Poor confused Teodora continue walking and I told Milo Peng that she had a seat reservation and was obvious that she was in this compartment. Milo chased her down and she came in to our Six seat compartment and that was it. Doors was shut and Peng was determine to not give any more seats up.

Why did Peng gave away a seat to Daviela was unknown to me but I guess that is favouritism at its best.

We all had a great time chatting and telling stories to one another in that cabin. Peng a white women from South Africa and her Husband a diabetic Indian British, Daviela a backpacker trying to go land route to India though Turkestan, Teodora from Bulgaria which looks like a Model but works in China making designer Handbags. The Pot could not be more diversely mixed. We had a great time chatting of every topic one could think off. From Cycling tours and the consideration of an ebike, to hitchhiking and a guy asking to see one of Daviala boobs to being a celebrity in China.

Soon it was late and after many repeated refute and rebuke of people trying to enter the cabin we got the 6 seater cabin to 5 of us ourselves. Time to sleep as it was getting late and slowly one by one all of us doze off. I was in a state of semi sleep and semi awake all the time. For a point I did not trust the look of the guys sitting outside out cabin eyeing us with envy and spite. I was worried that if we all fall sound asleep something was bound to get missing so every time the door rattle I was awake but it was always a false alarm being one of them stretching his leg and kicking the door. Still every now and then I caught the glimpse of their eyes lurking.

We also got the most ticket checks for one measly night train. I think it was every hour that the conductor came for a check and at one point the guys outside enlisted one of the conductor for help in getting them the free seat. Peng held fast but was still bullied by the conductor and when he woke up teodora which was in a mean mood she scolded him in Bulgarian and Daviela slammed the door in the conductor face. …. Shocked the conductor just left us alone ….

Morning came and we were still in Serbia not even reaching the border of Bulgaria yet. I notice that the black lurking eyes due to lack of sleep outside was even more intense now and focus primarily at Milo which was spread out between two seat and his wife lap … 3 seats … full sleeping position. You could smell the fire just outside the door and window of our cabin.

We reached the border of Serbia finally and passport control came and took our passport for inspection. Mine was taken away as usual for further inspection as well as Pengs. It came back well and good with the Officer smiling and instead of saying my name, said Malaysia …. I was Unique and rare in a way I guess.

New passenger’s hopped on the train which as lot and a lot of old ladies for some reason. New people means a new tug of war of trying to get into our cabin for the one empty seat in the whole train carriage. I was too tired to even bother due to the lack of sleep but Teodora and Peng was quite energized from some nights sleep. Full vigor they defended the last empty seat till Teodora got into a heated argument with one of the old lady. Curse you for your lack of consideration ….

I guess it affected her in a way that when the next old lady came trying she gave up soon enough and gave her, her own seat instead deciding to stand in the corridor. Peng would not allow it and she was pull back in to seat …. So 5 of us plus an old lady.

The lady was so determine that she told Teodora when we cross the border to Bulgaria, she must be seated. It is a MUST …. That was partially why she gave up her own thinking it was only for a short while pass the border. Teodora could not resist and she asked why it was a must for her to be seated.

I’ll tell you after we cross the border the old lady said …

All this was in Bulgarian language of course and Teodora translated it for us every time ..When we finally cross the border into Bulgaria the old lady revealed that she was loaded with cigarettes and the bunch of them on the train was going to Serbia to buy cigs and transport them to Bulgaria for reselling.

Smack Forehead ……

Wat a journey this train ride was.

We reached Sofia late as expected at 11 am instead of 8 am.