China Day 11 - A free day In Lhasa Visiting Jokhang Temple & Potala Palace

Finally a rest day where we had two night stay in one place instead of moving everyday. A day to sleep in and rest but then it was Lhasa the capital of Tibet where there was so many things to see and explore. 

I was a little torn but by now knew that our precious free days during China crossing would be even more packed with activities and require more energy for the day for there was so much to explore with so little time.

Hence up and early for sunshine and by 830am we were out the back door walking with Tenzin to visit Jokhang Temple. 

Jokhang Temple - Lhasa Tibet 

Entering Via the Tourist Line to Jokhang Temple 

The Jokhang or Rasa ‘phrul snang gtsug lag khang or Qoikang Monastery or Zuglagkang is considered the heart of Lhasa. It consist of a Tibetan Buddhist Temple, a temple complex and a Gelug school monastery located inside Lhasa Ancient city in Barkhor Square.

Jokhang Temple

The pilgrims would prostrate in Tibetan prayer going three steps forwards then to the knees and flat out laying on belly with head bow praying ever going clockwise around the temple. 

Jokhang Temple 

Entering the temple was another line split in two where the pilgrim gate was free and squashed to the brim with its queue going far out of the temple and turning for hundreds of meters.

We went through the express tourist gate paying the ticket fee. It was interesting that the express gate and the pilgrim gate only difference was price of admission and the queue length where once both gate reached the inner sanctuary starting point, both parties were actually entangled together and there was no difference between pilgrim and tourist.

Pilgrims outside Jokhang Temple in their dedicated Prayer Ritual for hours 

Pilgrim outside Jokhang Temple in their Dedicated Prayer Rituals for Hours 

Tenzin gave us so much information about the history and culture about Jokhang but like always the information detainment is minimal other than the majestic feeling of just being there. 

There was two important statue of Buddha brought to Tibet by a Nepalese queen Bhrikuti and a Tang Chinese Queen Wencheng. 

During the China cultural revolution, much of the temple exterior was burned but amazingly the internal structure and relics was preserved in its original state.

No photos was allowed inside the temple and the mass crowd would also made photo taking near impossible. It reminded me of visiting the sacred Kali temple in Kolkata India. Massive people and some sort of pilgrimage order within the chaos.

There was so many internal chambers and countless number of Buddha image and sculpture unique to Tibet that I had not observed in any other parts of the world. 

Without the chaos of people I would have stayed inside exploring for days but the craziness required some breather space for mental stability hence once we had pass the chambers there was no turning back.

Tibet culture dictates that one should only go clockwise so as the chaos flow goes, once you had pass the chambers, there was no backtracking other than following the flow through the temple then restarting the sequence. 

Time passed quickly without us realizing it while exploring the inner sanctum of Jokhang Temple. By the time we were ready to leave the place it was already past noon.

Tenzin gave us an hour break where each of us did our own stuff before gathering up again to head for Potala Palace. I had to rush and quickly do an oil change for Bragge. 

There was no other chance to do it with everyday going sun-up to sun-down riding so it was now or never. I ended up forgoing lunch for that reason and since I skipped breakfast I guess today would be a fasting day of visiting temples.

Potala Palace

Me at Potala Palace of Lhasa - Tibet

Our guide apparently made reservation tickets for us for the Potala Palace. Hence we all had to be there exactly at 2pm as per the appointed slot. 

Tenzin told us that the place was so packed with tourist that the tickets sold out months before the actual day but luckily reservation was possible and we had it. If we were to just rock up to the counter trying to get in, it would be impossible to get a ticket

Tibet was already high in altitude and Lhasa was around 3600m in elevation. Potala palace which was built on a small hill mount had no escalator or lift for the tourist. The only way was to climb the stairs and that 100m elevation climb was no joke in high altitude.

Wheezing my way up to the Potala Palace Lhasa - Tibet

Inner Courtyard of the Potala Palace Lhasa - Tibet 

Wheezing slowly to the top, the palace interior was a maze that only sections were opened to visitor forming a one directional path through the palace. 

To be honest I would say a photo from outside is sufficient and the exploring the interior could be left out if really short on time. 

If not for the novelty of the only Palace in Tibet and paying respect to the remains of former Dalai Lama, I would have skipped this if one were short on time in Lhasa.

By the time we left Potala Palace it was already dinner time and that was the end of our free day. I ran for a quick bite and headed back to Bahkhor Street at night to see the night light up of the ancient city marveling at how the pilgrim was still prostrating in the freezing cold.

Bahkhor Street at Night

Bahkhor Street at night

Traveled on: May 2024

China Day 10 - Nyingchi to Lhasa via new Expressway G4218

There was only one agenda today. Get to Lhasa ASAP and explore the ancient Capital of Tibet. With the advise from our Tibet Guide Tenzin, he told us to skip all the detour stop along the way and just head for a beeline to Lhasa.

We trusted Tenzin so instead of the National Road of G318, we all hit the highway between Nyingchi – Lhasa which was the G4218 running just parallel with G318. 

G4218 Highway Rest Stop from Nyingchi to Lhasa 

The suggested photo stops of Xiuba Mellennium Castle Group, Huge Rock in Middle of Niyang River, Taizhao Ancient City and Mira Mountain Pass at 5013m was all skipped by taking the highway.

It was nice being able to cruise at a high speed after spending many days going through rough terrain in Tibet. The roads were lovely and the mountains scene was just as beautiful so the journey on the highway passed very quickly even though the journey today was nearly 400km

We all reached Lhasa nice and early and I immediately hit the streets of the ancient city to explore. The group split up doing their own thing with some cars going for a maintenance service while others took a rest or did some laundry. 

Bahkhor Street - Lhasa Tibet 

Bahkhor Street - Lhasa Tibet 

Bahkhor Street - Lhasa Tibet 

I was running. We only had two days in Lhasa and it was such a vibrant cultural city that I knew even a week would not be enough to fully understand this living historical city.

After so many days of just nature, Lhasa was a fresh hit of culture. Condense culture and historical legacy that made even the first few hours in Lhasa a little overwhelming to the sensory. 

Narrow streets with very old buildings mixed with locals living their lives within the little maze hidden from the mass throng of tourist made this city so much different compared to Lijiang of Dali.

Exploring the Residential Area behind Bahkhor Street - Lhasa 

Local Bread - Lhasa Tibet 

Lhasa was a living city so a little exploration beyond the main street of tourist survivor trinkets showed much of how alive this city was. 

That night we had one of our largest group dinners going out for some nice good hot pot. Interestingly we also ventured outside the old city for food and boxing the old ancient city of Lhasa was modern Lhasa with civilization clearly blossoming.

Modern Lhasa surrounding the Ancient City of Lhasa 

Great Food, Great People, Great Place - Tibet 

Traveled on: May 2024

China Day 9 - Route G318 Riding from Ranwu to Nyingchi through Lulang Forest Sea in the High Tibetan Plateau

We all started early now in the morning regardless of distance to cover for the day. We had became a little more weary on the journey through Tibet and its sudden curve ball that could come at any moment.

Mostly, we all wanted more time to stop along the journey and enjoy the crazy beautiful landscape and its unique features.

Weather was cloudy today with not much sunshine so the wind chill was a new type of cold riding the rooftop of the world. Mountains so high that snow covers it perpetually even in summer and the white trails seams so close that we could almost ride up to it at any time.

Lulang Forest in Tibet 

Riding Through Lulang Forest in Tibet 

Just 60km after starting the journey from Ranwu and the barren landscape suddenly changed. It was now a forest of trees and greens with white snow backdrop. Its really mind blowing for someone especially from Malaysia where we only have one season and one type of forest.

The landscape was lush or ripe and there was no justified way to describe it. Maybe this is why people are able to survive in this high altitude living. There was a certain amount of peace for sure. Development is not easy with the difficult terrain and external trade almost non-existence other than tourism.

Riding Through Lulang Forest in Tibet - G318

Met some locals riding the G318

Lulang Town Gate 

We soon pass Sejila Mountain Pass at 4720m but since our ride for the whole day was already in high altitude never going below 3000m and the weather was cloudy making it cold bite the whole way, it was no surprise to see snow on the ground at the mountain pass.

I definitely went stupid. Malaysian become a little crazy when seeing snow and I have only ever see falling snow two times in my life. Tibet would make it so much more. Stopping at the peak pass, I brought out my camping chair just to sit in the snow and enjoy the view.

Locals Setting Up Karaoke at Selija Mountain Pass @ 4720m Altitide 

Me Enjoying the Dirty Snow at Selija Mountain Pass @ 4720m Altitude 

When we reach Nyingchi, it was a big city. So big that we had to take cabs to go around to see the city and find food. Nyingchi seams modern to boot and with my roommate crazy for parties, our local guide brought us to a nightclub after constant pestering.

I of course was dragged along half wondering how much I am going to regret it the next day riding with lack of sleep but at the same time enjoying the extra local immersion of today's Tibet world.

Nothing like a Nightclub filled with smoke in High Altitude.

DNA Nightclub at Nyingchi - Tibet 

One Night in Tibet Partying 

Traveled on: May 2024

China Day 8 - Route G318 Zogang to Ranwu Where The Road Gets More and More Challenging

We thought the hardest part of Tibet journey was done after yesterday grueling ride up and down mountain pass for the whole day. Little did we know that it was only the beginning and that everyday would be a different type of challenge going through Tibet region

In reality it should have been a reasonable day journey. Todays journey was only 220km however what we did not anticipate was the amount of road blocks and traffic congestion along the mountain pass that set us back hours from our destination.

View of Snow Covered Mountains at Meiyu Grassland 

The day started early at 8am and immediately we encountered the first road blocks. Construction was ongoing everywhere along G318 and as the only trunk road going to Lhasa with no other alternative, the road was being upgraded forcefully by just closing of the road for a few hours at a time to do construction works making everyone wait in queue with frustration not knowing when the journey could resume.

Bikers were not exempt in this and while we could skip ahead of the queue, we could not continue pass the road block. The construction works were highly dangerous blasting the mountain rocks to make wider roads of G318 so while the blasting and clearing was underway there was no other choice but to close the road due to safety reasons.

The first detour stop was to Meiyu Grassland. Flatland in the high Tibetan plateau surrounded by glossy snow capped mountains. It was quick detour for a beautiful scenery and then we quickly pushed on to the second stop, Yela Mountain pass at 4666m elevation.

We were definitely riding the rooftop of the world now. From Zogang elevation of 3900m we were going up and down but always averaging around 4000m elevation. Everyone seams good with the elevation and fully acclimatize and I felt normal without much trouble.

Yela Mountain Pass @ 4666m Altitude 

Route G318 View at Yela Mountain Pass 

Moving on we went to the viewpoint of 72 turns of Nujiang River. The roads winding through the mountain from the view point looked like a movie set from Initial D and just looking at it felt like a race-car driver looking at a new track figuring out how to tackle the 72 turns downhill.

We reach the bottom of Nujiang River and ran stright into another road block. This one was a big one where all traffic was stopped from 2pm till 5pm. All bikers really piled up in front queuing and I even opened up a chair to wait for time.

Seventy - Two Turns of Nujiang River - Route G318

Road Block at G318 for hours 

Traffic Congestions at G318

5pm and we are off to the start of the race with all bikers revving away like a start of a rally. It became a rush for time now since we did not have much sunlight left and the journey was still a long way to go. 

Nujiang Bridge was a quick photo stop and then off again trying to beat the traffic built up. Trucks and lorries were all backed up blocking every path in the winding road and in some cases cause a gridlock where non can move.

I could not recall passing the fifth and six stop which was Duola Mountain Pass at 3275m and Anjiula Mountain Pass at 4325m for it was really a race with sunlight now. Everything was getting dark and riding through the snowline as the sunsets was really freezing.

Most of us had no choice but to ride at night just to reach Ranwu today. It was a really mind breaking journey for the roads were broken, no street lights and weather was so darn cold making the journey at night so taxing that once we reach the hotel everyone crashed into bed.

Route G318 to Ranwu

Unlimited Snow Covered Mountains - Route G318 to Ranwu

Last of Daylights before riding at night to Ranwu - G318

We saw a glimpse of Ranwu in the morning, beautiful place to really stop and stay for a few days but alas we had to push on having so little time to transverse China.

Traveled on: June 2024

China Day 7 - From Deqen to Zogang. Hitting Route 318 & Entering Tibet Restricted Autonomous Region.

Today under the tour itinerary the description said it would be the most challenging day out of all days in the tour where we would have to traverse a distance of 400km going through three big mountain pass where the road were described as treacherous. Estimated time for todays journey was 10 hours.

Still morale was high and I was smiling so wide that nothing could put a fear into me. Today was also the day we officially entered the Tibetan Autonomous Region going through the first mandatory Tibet guide checkpoint.

Entering Tibet Autonomous Region 

Tibet - Route G318

We were riding through the mountains now and every road were either on one side of the mountain ridge or the other. After a while I realized that we were actually going up and down snaking through the mountain to the best portion to cross rivers and ravine where bridges are possible to built and then finding that mountain pass to go up and over one ridge only to find another path through the next mountain.

The view was breathtaking at every turn and I could not imagine doing Tibet route just once. Merging onto G318, this route slogan of “Must Go In Your Life” holds true to its meaning. 

It’s a must see at least once in a lifetime but if opportunity exist, it’s something one would not get tired off doing over and over again.

At the first Tibet Checkpoint, we all gathered up and entered together and immediately split up going at our own pace to the next destination. There was only one road G318 and navigation was not really needed. Still climbing the first pass and slowly came to view with majestic snowcap mountains. Honglanshan Mountain Pass at the peak was 4200m.

Honglanshan Mountain Pass @ 4200m Altitude 

View at Honglanshan Mountain Pass 

Up the mountain pass then down to the villages by the river crossing then climbing up again to the second Lawushan Mountain Pass at 4368m. 

There was a gate marker and a small G318 signpost with the altitude marker but I missed it thinking that the small concrete pavement to right would bring me up to the peak scenic spot.

Halfway up the concrete pavement and it felt a bit wrong but as I near the peak and saw the gated and barbed fence facility building, it was definitely no tourist stop. 

In fact it was a military outpost and before I could quickly turn around, the guard at the gate wave me from far away to approach him.

Lawushan Mountain Pass @ 4368m Altitude 

Lawushan Mountain Pass Travelling Coffee Camper @ 4368m Altitude 

With my broken mandarin being more broken since I was nervous in front of the officer, I managed to convey that I thought this was a scenic spot. 

It was a restricted military base and I was not allowed to be here. Identification card was requested and when I gave him my passport the officer had a dumbfounded look and calmed down not knowing what to do.

A quick call inside and I was given a warning not to ride on unmarked concrete pavement road. I was told to turn around and head back to the main road. Just before I go, the officer gave me a final warning to beware of falling rock when riding route G318. I wave him goodbye with a big smile and zoom back down to the signpost for a coffee.

Time slowed down somehow I think, for when we were riding through the mountain pass it did not seam like a lengthy and tiring journey. 

Roads were fairly good in my opinion and not the treacherous type and the winding and twisty roads were actually a delight for motorcyclist. Still it was getting late by the time I reached the third Juebashan Mountain Pass which was 3911m

Speeding up trying to get to Zogang before nightfall was obvious that we would not make it in time. Mountain pass riding had a pace to itself and no speeding could make up for it. 

One just need to follow the mountain pace. We reached the last Dongdashan Mountain Pass which was 5130m. It was really high with thin air.

While the first three mountain pass was cold with amazing view, this last one had snow. We were so high up that the snow would not melt even in the summer. 

Dongdashan Mountain Pass @ 5130m Altitude 

Zogang County along Route G318

I really hang around a lot at that last mountain pass just enjoying the view and the people all crowding around to take pictures of the plinth marker.

Last of the sunlight was used to get to Zogang and we reached just when the sun set closed to 9pm. Apparently since we were so high up now in the world, sunlight stays a long time before darkfall.

Traveled on: May 2024