Route Info – Northern Laos

This post is part of the Route-Info series continuation from :

1. Route Info - Road Trip Southeren Thailand from Hat Yai to Arayanprathet 

2. Route Info – Road Trip Cambodia

3. Route Info – Thailand Part 2 Going from Central to Northern Thailand

From Thailand last stop at Chiang Khong, I enter into Laos to Huay Xai and from there on this is the riding route I took going south through the northern parts of Laos before exiting at Vientiane and re-entering Thailand to explore the region of Isaan.

(Entry From Thailand) Chiang Khong -> Huay Xai -> Luang Namtha -> Muang Xai -> Nong Khiaw -> Luang Prabang -> Phou Khoun -> Vang Vieng -> Vientiane -> Nong Khai (Exit into Isaan Thailand) 

Route Info - Northern Laos 

Things of Interest along the route :

Huay Xai – Luang Namtha

Huay Xai to Luang Namtha was one of the more peaceful ride up and down the mountainous terrain through really rural countryside of Laos. Village are scattered far apart with no electricity or piped water. Riding slow watching the locals gathering all kinds of forestry produce walking slowly along the side of the road makes one appreciate how simple life can be.

A light tap on the horns giving the beep beep hello to the kids as I ride pass the villages was always returned with a smile and waving hands and by evening one could see the whole village gathering around the one source of bamboo piped water from the mountain to have a bath. Girls delicately covered in their sarongs while the kids runs free playing with water.

The Border Towns of Lao – China

I did two day trip detours to the border of Lao – China just for fun partly wondering if I would be able to sneak Bluey into China and also hoping there was some sort of signpost saying Border of Lao-China which I could take a photo with Bluey.

The Pang Hai Border crossing passes through the countryside of Muang Sing village which is shaped like a natural broken rice bowl. The city sits in a very flat plateau fully farmed with paddy fields, sugarcane, corn, etc but towards the horizon one could see the village was fully encircled by sharp jagged mountainous barrier.

The Boten Border Crossing is the main heart-line between Lao-China and heavily used by trucks transporting all kinds of agricultural produce from Lao to China and in return construction materials are brought in from China to Lao.

Muang Xai – Nong Khiaw

Muang Xai, Muang Xay or Oudomxay all means the same city which is the largest city in northern Laos. Large is always relative in Laos and for someone who grew up in KL-Malaysia, it felt more like a forgotten town than a city. Still the signs are there of a city, as indicative of the presence of industries not reliant on farming or tourism.

Nong Khiaw however is another favorite of mine. This small town with beautiful jagged limestone mountain plunging straight into the Nam Ou river is a sight to see plus with the little shacks of retreats blending into the river and forest scene was a great place just to chill back and relax watch the river run by.

UNESCO HERITAGE – Luang Prabang

There is so many things to say about Luang Prabang, but I’ll leave it as just a UNESCO Heritage city in Laos. The only one in fact so its a must stop for any first time visit to Laos.

Phou Khoun

The hidden gem. The roads are challenging climbing up the mountain but totally worth the priceless view. Find the local strawberry farms / campgrounds to experience an amazing sunset over sharp rocky mountain landscape which looks like a picture from a magical fantasy world.

Vang Vieng

The backpacker town of Laos. Good place to re-supply.

Vientiane

The quint capital of Laos .... nuff said ... :)

Traveled On : Jan 2019
#overlandinglaos #motorbikinglaos #routeinfo #laos #motorpackerasia #blurtravels

Visiting Temples in Chiang Rai

I wonder could i skip writing about Chiang Rai. I did not really do much here but visit temples after temples after temples.

White temple, blue temple, black temple, big Buddha statue temple. I did an average of three things a day which took maybe 4 hours and called it a day going back to the hostel for rest. Fatigue was really getting to me after running a fast pace from the Mae Hong Son Loop to Doi Angkang and up to Doi Mae Salong loop. 

Wat Rong Khun - White Temple - Chiang Rai 

Wat Rong Khun - White Temple - Chiang Rai

Wat Rong Khun - White Temple - Chiang Rai 

Chiang Rai was one place where I felt it was the time to slow down a bit before hitting the next leg in Laos. I wonder how some of the tour buses just shuttle all the tourist from one temple to another making the day trip seamed like a photo-shoot or joystick planting obligation instead of immersing into the thousands of hours that the craftsman put into slowly fine tuning every details that were in the temples. 

Wat Huey Pla Kang - Chiang Rai

Wat Huey Pla Kang - Chiang Rai 

Wat Huey Pla Kang - Chiang Rai 

Wat Rong Suea Ten - Blue Temple - Chiang Rai 

Wat Rong Suea Ten - Blue Temple - Chiang Rai 

Wat Rong Suea Ten - Blue Temple - Chiang Rai 

Black House - Chiang Rai 

Black House - Chiang Rai 

Night time was another chaos in Chiang Rai. I was lucky enough to be there during the weekend to catch the famous local night market every Saturday which ran a few kilometers long. They sold everything and anything they could think off and the walk was definitely more interesting than the permanent tourist night bazaar which was full of souvenir trinkets.

Chiang Rai Night Bazaar

Souvenir at Chiang Rai Night Bazaar 

Mural at Chiang Rai Bus Station 

Traveled on: Jan 2019

An Akha Legend About the Origin of Opium

Extract taken from 212 House of Opium – Golden Triangle Thailand 

Akha Legend Version 1 

......

There is an old Akha legend about the origin of opium

A long time ago there was a young girl so beautiful that she has many suitors 

Of all these, seven men impressed her

Then one day all seven men came to ask for her hand in marriage

The girl did not want to choose one from among them for fear of making the others sad and jealous

She therefore decided to make love to all seven men

Even though she knew that it would surely cause her death

she was happy to make this sacrifice

When she could endure it no more she asked for death and to be reincarnated as a beautiful flower

Before dying she told her relative to take good care of her grave, on which a beautiful flower would grow up from her heart. 

She said that whoever tasted the flower’s sap would like it and want more but that it would bear both good and evil 

.......

Akha Legend Version 2 

.......

A long time ago there was a young Akha girl who was very beautiful but who had such bad body odour that no men would come near her. 

She therefore had such a sad lonely life that she died brokenhearted 

Before dying she made a wish and asked her fellow villagers to take good care of her grave 

Later a beautiful flower grew up from her grave 

When anyone tried its sap they would want to taste it again and again but this sap, apart from giving amazing pleasure, it also cause terrible suffering

A Lua Tribe Legend on the Origin of Tobacco and Opium

If there is a reason I keep going into museums after museum no matter how small or crappy it looked like, it would be for reason like these where I sometime stumble onto the local stories or myths. In a way I am a story collector despite my poor memory, stories fascinates me and throughout the years I traveled, I have learn to listen and just listen. ( Or in this case ... read )

Extract taken from 212 House of Opium - Golden Triangle Thailand

.........

A long time ago a very elderly women died of old age

Before she died she asked that she be buried near a busy crossroad 

After her funeral two tobacco plant appeared on the grave above the women's breast 

and an opium plant grew above her loins 

The villagers saw these strange plants and tasted them 

henceforth liking the tobacco more than opium, they therefore planted it and smoked it 

this preference for tobacco was because it came from the old women breast and thus children when weaned of milk smoked tobacco instead 

.........

Chiang Sean & The Golden Triangle

Day-trip from Chiang Sean to the Golden Triangle was very easy since it was only 10km away. I seriously wonder why did the Golden Triangle attract so much tourist when its just a place with nothing much to see. The history of Poppy and the drug-lords at the golden triangle was interesting but with the internet nowadays, one do not require to go all the way to the place to read the same print out and pasted on the wall for tourism information. 

Golden Triangle Park - Thailand 

In fact those were a thing of the past and the golden triangle has undergone a peaceful change to sustainable agriculture under the Thai Royal Project. Maybe it was the rumors and myths that refuse to move on with the flowing of time hence I still get warnings from friends and family about the dangers of visiting the infamous golden triangle of south east asia. 

Golden Triangle Park - Thailand 

212 House of Opium - Golden Triangle Thailand 

Golden Triangle Marker - Border of Three Countries Thailand-Myanmar-Laos

I guess I got suckered into the tourist gimmick trend as well, a relatively small town packed with tourist buses taking pictures of built up monuments for the tourism photo shot. I contemplated taking a ride all the way to Mae Sai, the border of Thailand-Myanmar just for the heck of it but the many days of riding fatigue was starting to eat into me hence I stayed back to Chiang Sean. 

The Merging of Ruak & Mekong River which marks the border boundaries of Thailand-Myanmar-Laos
Hence The Golden Triangle

Bluey riding around the Opium Park at the Golden Triangle Thailand 

Chiang Sean however was a surprise. Initially I thought it was just a cheap place to stay since guesthouse at the Golden Triangle was very expensive but riding around Chiang Seen, the city feels like a mini mini Ayutthaya. 

A city moat wall, mini temple ruins, Buddha statue left abandon and somehow all these was blend into the city of Chiang Sean. If one was not observant these ancient ruins could be passes as an abandon building in a run down city. I passes a few temple ruins initially without even seeing it but once I knew what to look for, riding round and round this small town Chaing Sean was fun for half a day looking at the forgotten temples. 

A broken Budha Statue in Chiang Sean 

Chiang Sean 

Chiang Sean 

Night time was always dinner by the Mekong river looking over towards the Laos side. 

Dinner by the River in Chiang Sean 

The local Menu

Mekong Fish Cooked in Bamboo - Thai Style 

Little Night Market in Chiang Sean 

Traveled on: Jan 2019

A Daytrip Detour into Doi Mae Salong

I took the detour going into Doi Mae Salong from Thaton to Chiang Sean. It was a nice ride and very scenic but at the same time at the back of my mind I was constantly worried if I would meet an obstacle challenge like those previously in Doi Angkang along the way. 

Road to Doi Mae Salong 

Doi Mae Salong while calming and peaceful did not capture me to stay the night. The lodgings were expensive, no hostel in sight and furthermore I had limited days now in Thailand. A day trip ride through would have to suffice but I was still glad I did the detour to have a look. 

The roads up were good tarmac, winding steeply and without pause and Bluey and I rode up and up in amazing time with my ears popping every few seconds while the view transformed into lush valleys and mountains backdrop. 

Doi Mae Salong

Tea House at Doi Mae Salong

Climate was cold, as cold as Doi Angkang or Doi Inthanon but while the other two national parks had barely any village to explore, Doi Mae Salong was a huge community (relatively speaking) with markets, rows of house built all along the main road and then more than some dotting the mountainside. 

Doi Mae Salong Town

Street Vendors - Doi Mae Salong 

In south east asia terms, Doi Mae Salong was like Cameron Highlands in Peninsular Malaysia, or Kudasang in Sabah, or Dalat in Vietnam. I would not compared it to the Mae Hong Son Loop for it had a different type of vibe. While Mae Hong Son loop had a feel of a small big city, Doi Mae Salong felt like a big community on highland living and farming yet not a large enough to feel like a city. 

Orange Colored Buildings - Doi Mae Salong 

Doi Mae Salong Community - Houses & Shop dotting the Mountain side 

Doi Mae Salong Park 

Beautiful View - Doi Mae Salong 

They even had a tea plantation in Doi Mae Salong which really reminded me of Cameron Highlands.

If only I had more time really, I would stay in Doi Mae Salong to chill and kick back some hot tea every day writing and watch the clouds roll by. 

Tea Plantation at Doi Mae Salong 

Tea Plantation at Doi Mae Salong 

Tea Plantation at Doi Mae Salong 

The beautiful countryside of Doi Mae Salong

Traveled on: Jan 2019

Bad Things Comes in Threes – Doi Angkang One Crazy Riding Adventure

Doi Angkang. I knew it was going to be a great day setting out riding on new years eve aiming for Doi Angkang. The idea was to stay the night up in the mountains, the third tallest peak in Thailand and camp among the clouds even if I have to somehow endure the shivering cold in a tent, it was something I was determined to do. The idea of waking up on new years day in the mountain was too good to pass on but alas plans don't always work out as one dreams.

The Beginning of what I thought would be an easy ride for the day ... 

The ride was suppose to be easy. Only 86 km from Chinag Dao and the first 50km of the road was pretty easy, flat and serene passing by little huts shelter and farm land. After the turn at Arunothai village which somehow, I could not find a place to stop for lunch hence riding on and the roads begin to go through forestry zig zagging steep uphill and downhill. The climb up was difficult but still within good control.

Not Much Room to Stop for a Break Riding up Doi Angkang

Bluey went up slowly but surely and with every steep climb I was down to first gear with full control knowing that Bluey will make it ok. I guess the initial confident makes me a little blind onward into the journey. Downhill was difficult too, stressing the brakes and with little to no side-path for a safe stop, I carried on.

I stop for lunch at the first little village I saw once I was out of the mountain pass. I thought the worst was over. If the whole stretch was going to be like the one I just navigated, it wont be so bad. I only left 20km anyway to my destination of Doi Angkang camping grounds and at 1pm with plenty of time to spare I was not at all concern.

After lunch I continue on tackling on some seriously beautiful and challenging roads. Roads were narrow and roads were not in the best conditions with cracks and holes in them. Still it was better than gravel or dirt road. It was more like just an old road that had not seen any care for a while other than the vehicles running it.

Small Town along the Mountain Road to Doi Angkang

I saw the super steep and super long climb from far away. In my mind I knew this was going to be hard. If I could keep the movement at first gear, I thought no matter how slow Bluey goes, so long as I keep calm and control the first gear that I would eventually reach the top of this steep obstacle.

I thought wrong, and midway through the climb Bluey could go no further even at first gear. I executed the perfect stop, full brakes and clutch in at first gear. I was stationary in the middle of the climb with my left leg down for balance. It was so steep that there was no way for me to do anything other than to freeze there.

Trying to release the back brakes cause a slight movement backwards. Trying to move forward with the loudest scream on first gear cause an immediate choke the moment the clutch slightly kicks in. I could not do anything and the more I tried the more I lost control. With my right leg securely on the back brakes since front brake was insufficient to hold the bike in place, I had to try to move it upwards or sideways to make a u-turn back downhill.

Throttle-engage clutch and try to move, and for a moment I was moving slower than a baby crawl but Bluey was screaming like he was set on fire. One slight finesse mistake on the clutch and the engine went dead, choked to death.

HELP HELP >>>> BLUEY's Down !!!

Now I was on a slope with trucks and bikes passing me but I was sitting duck. Trying to restart Bluey I lost balance and tilted the bike to the right side and a fall was inevitable. Left my bike laying there while I wonder how am I going to go to Doi Angkang. Backtracking the way I came seams like a bad idea since I now remembered the numerous steeper downhill I had to go through to even get this far.

Standard procedure kicks in and I offloaded Bluey taking out the luggage and the cargo box and waited for some kind soul to help me pick up the bike. Standing there it felt unnatural like you had to lean your whole body weight sideways just to stand without feeling a pull downhill.

Unload all the dead weight for another try ^^

A lot of locals on motorbikes with pillion wanted to help and some slowed down only to realized their own mistakes. Luckily their pillion could jump down and immediately help push their bike up hill while the rider screamed the engine all the way to the max.

Two boys stopped and after somehow stabilizing their bike on the slope they came to help me. One of them had the confident to bring it up for me to the top of the hill. I really needed the help and my idea was to have two of us push the bike up while one person ride it screaming the engine in first gear. Still communication barrier was evident with my basic Thai so I had to leave Bluey in their experimental hands.

Lifting Bluey up took 3 of us and then it took all three of us to turn Bluey around, now facing back the way I came, downhill. One of the boys prepared to take Bluey back downhill preparing to restart the climb. The other guy and me took all the luggage walking up hill.

We saw the boy making a long head start speeding to the maximum trying to climb this super steep obstacle hill only to fail at the exact same spot I had crashed. He however had the idea and luck of no oncoming vehicle to turn Bluey around before it was too late, avoiding becoming stuck like a sitting duck(me). So back down hill again and try and try again.

I figured he would be alright since once we got all the stuff at the top of the hill, if needed we could go back down and push the bike up. But as we headed down he came up blaring the engine with two feet paddling the ground running. He barely made it to the top and luckily too for that last stunt would have ended badly if the leg assisted powered Bluey were to stop dead. For two legs on the ground means no back brakes.

The Two Local Boys which Stopped to Help me Bring Bluey up the Steep Slope

I thank them .... I could not be more grateful and while they offered to ride Bluey all the way to Doi Angkang while I become pillion on their bike, I felt it was not right and that I have to see this through.

First real Break after the Fall

The last 20km to Doi Angkang was filled with crazy imaginary thoughts in my head. What if there was another impasse like the one before. I would be stuck between many obstacle never ever to get off this mountain. Many times after, I had to climb in first gear and I was starting to think that while climbing mountains was one of the most exhilarating and challenging thing to do, it was also a very huge risk every time I head to a mountain which has very little people travelling. Luckily it was new year eve and somehow there was so many local tourist headed to Doi Angkang.

Beautiful Scenery Ride up to Doi Angkang

The Vast Landscape of Mountains & Valleys on the way to Doi Angkang

When I finally reached the camp grounds marked on google map, the place was not a camp ground. Searching other parts of Doi Angkang I found the alleged campground with standard tent rental at 225 baht. There was no more tent for rent ... all rented out and the camp ground was so damn packed with people I wondered how was this even possible or even considered camping since it looked like a hundred people or more was there. I did not even wanted to imagine how bad the single toilet in the campground would be like.

Campsite is overcrowded on New Year's Eve - Doi Angkang

Mass Campsite in Doi Angkang due to New Year's Eve 

Strike 2 ... and at this point I was thinking when will the strike 3 comes because I know that jinks happens in threes.

3pm

A decision to make but it was really a no brainier since I had no place to stay in Doi Angkang so I had to go downhill or risk freezing to death at night. Whipped out my phone to book a place at Thaton which was 50km away. Doable I thought trying to reassure myself. Google navigation said it would only take 1 hour.

The road up was not the same as the road down. I choose to go forward so I had no idea how the road was like going downhill. Riding around the top of Doi Angkang it was ok but at the beginning of the downhill was a village and the roads were blocked by police. Seamed like they had a restriction on when the road could be used. Close by 6pm it said so I just drove through the gaps since no one really stopped me.

Immediately after the roadblock was the downhill, and I was greeted by dirt road. Oh f*cking gravel.

Gravel Road Downhill with poor visibility due to Clouds in the sky 

I was immediately reminded of the gravel ride in Cambodia from Sihanoukville to Koh Kong and I knew this was going to be a very hard downhill. Halfway through downhill I knew there was no turning back because the downhill ride was as steep as the initial uphill previously that I fell. There was only one way out of this and that was downhill. Brakes were precious and every chance I get I release the brakes to get some rest, least I overheat the pads and all was good even with every little slide giving my heart a skip, I was somehow still in control.

The gravel road with many pot holes means at times I brake and skidded but it was those minor skids, less than a second and with a release of the brakes, the wheel turn and I regain control. Cambodia dirt road experience was helping me with this downhill.

The final stretch and I saw the last 100m of dirt road but there was a fork and I wondered which way was I suppose to go. Super focus and concentration forgotten for a while, while I ponder on directions instead on the downhill ride was all it took.

I realized too late I was going the wrong way and tried to turn right instead which somehow succeeded but was in the wrong gear and trying to kick into the right gear while going downhill cause my front wheel to skid and this time I fall right side. It was slow enough that I saw it coming and I could react fast enough to get my legs out of the way side stepping while the bike went down sideways but the slope was so steep I was facing forward and I did a full 360 somersault rolling like a ball with my body. I was lucky that was all and did not roll uncontrollably all the way down.

Second fall in the same day coming downhill from Doi Angkang

Unload Bluey and wait for passerby for help

Three times today ,,,, somehow I felt relieve. The jinks had run its course and I had survived with minimal damage. Bluey still runs, I had a small scratch on my knees through the jeans although the jeans did not rip, and my right wrist got a minor sprain but still good enough to function fully.

Standard works again and I unloaded Bluey of all the luggage and waited for help. One guy with his wife passed and he had to go all the way downhill to park the bike before walking back up to help me.

Together we lifted Bluey on that slope and luckily Bluey was sideways. While he carefully hold Bluey, I went around the bike to kick it into neutral then with sign language, he took the front while I took the back and we slowly walked Bluey downhill. It was a short walk of 100m but our feet were slipping on the ground and many times I wondered how we did not slide and fell again on that slope.

Local To the Rescue ... 

I remember once saying this to another traveler. You want something to happen for if nothing happen the travel can be monotonous after a while, but while you wish for an adventure with exciting stories, you also wish that it is just the right amount, enough to feel alive but not too much that it causes permanent damage.

Riding through orchards towards Thaton

Traveled on : Dec 2018
#doiangkang #accidentonaroadtrip #roadtripproblems