Saturday 9 February 2019

Peaceful Battambang

My time in Battambang was a peace and quiet serenity that was unexpected but welcomed. I realized after a while that most tourist goes to Battambang and do a full day tour to visit all the sights in Battambang then head off to another destination. 

Having time and Bluey made so much difference to the ambiance of Battambang and I just spend days slowly exploring silently.

Downtown Battambang

Most days I spend the evening walking by the river looking at the people going about their daily life, old folks exercising, children playing, teenagers hanging out in groups or couples all in their happy bubble and the stalls that set up as restaurants as the sun goes down.

A little rustic and a few streets where colonial buildings somehow survived but not yet hyped up for tourism made the whole experience exploring downtown even more pleasant. I glimpse the families lives through cracks of their doors, food stalls with no menu or signs, all in-between a niche pub or a western renovated guesthouse but carefully blend in that it goes unnoticed if one walks slightly too fast. Walking around were a good way to absorbed the slow pace city vibe

Banan Temple

The temple ruins highlight for Battambang was Banan Temple roughly 20km south of downtown riding through small local village roads that barely register a car less even a truck. Somehow I saw a smaller trail offshoot just before the temple and decided to detour taking the smaller road towards Banan Temple. 

Parked Bluey right at the front of the stairways and started the steep climb up to visit the ruins of Banan Temple.

Banan Temple was really a mimic of temple ruins of what I remembered of Siem Reap only without any tourist or people at all. The few tourist that come and go does not linger long so there was long moments when I was just alone in the ruins poorly preserved but at the same time feels more authentic than some restored ruins in Siem Reap. 



Banan Temple Battambang

The Stairs going up to Banan Temple Battambang

Beautiful Lake at the base of Banan Temple Battambang
On my way out as I ride Bluey towards the main street, I passed what seamed like a ticket booth with the attendant looking at me stunned but before he could call out, I was already riding on wondering if I should be a sport and U-Turn to pay an entrance ticket fee but too lazy and embarrassed to do the right thing.

Phanom Sampov

On my way back to the city from Banan Temple, I detoured again. 

Maps in Cambodia are so deceiving and what seamed like a main road on the map turns out to be the worst dirt road i could find with heavy trucks running at full speed steering up dust every few minutes. 

Between the awful state of riding and wheezing dust, was a beautiful countryside of paddy fields in mid season grown out green and not ripe yellow yet.

When I thought the detour was more than enough and was planning to head back, just at the junction while waiting to turn right, I could see many local tuk tuk(taxi) that was ferrying farang after farang (White Tourist) going the other direction. 

There must be something to see the other way I thought and just like that I took a left turn quietly following the herd of tourist.

The impromptu decision brought me to Phanom Sampov which had multiple attraction within the small little limestone crop that stood out high in a very very flat land Battambang. 

The highlight was the view of course at the top, with 360 degrees view of Battambang as far as the horizon, a flat land full of agricultural paddy fields for rice. 


Phanom Sampov at Battambang
Monk Studying at Phanom Sampov Battambang

Battambang

Battambang

Battambang
The top of the hill house a shrine or temple, with interesting sculpture which is non like the usual Buddha like temples. Killing caves were also part of the limestone hills where holes in the rock structure was used as mass killing ground. 

Skeletons and bones were still left there for the tourist to visit and young kids will forcefully volunteer their guide service fill with historic narrative to the best of her English vocabulary for a tip in the end of the journey.

I have no doubt the plea for tips from the kids for books and study were a cleaver idea instead of of the usual begging for money from the tourist. They seamed to have fun running around poaching tourist to be their guide mustering courage to speak and finally ask for a tip. 



Killing Cave Battambang
Killing Cave Battambang

Bamboo Train

One day, I decided to have a look at the tourist gimmick of Bamboo train where the locals make use of the abandon rail tracks and put up makeshift rail cars with generators powering the wheels and of course a bamboo frame for loading passengers and cargo. 

These days the bamboo part is just a cosmetic covering hiding the sturdy metal frame beneath.

It cost USD 5 for a ride but if alone it would be USD 10. I decided the novelty of the tourist gimmick was worst having a look but at this point did not feel like wasting good money for it. Riding Bluey to the start point and having a look was good enough. 



Bamboo Train at Battambang

Bamboo Train at Battambang


Dismantled Bamboo Train at Battambang
Traveled on : November 2018

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