The Short Stop in Puerto Varas

Once I arrived Puerto Montt I had a choice, to stay or to leave immediately for Puerto Varas. I decided to walk around for an hour with my full backpack and scout out Puerto Montt to see if it was worth a night stay. Within half an hour I decided to leave for Puerto Varas.

The microbus ride was a short one about 20 minutes and cost me 800 peso. When the bus exited the highway towards Puerto Varas I could immediately feel that this was a preserved town and slightly skewered towards tourist or the local tourist kind. 

Houses and shops walls were built in the style using overlapping planks of wood to allow for water drainage, each unit painted to a distinct colour making the whole town looks candylicious. 

The roof were the same or sometime modernized to include metal sheets. Downtown was rustic and live were moving slower here, fewer automobiles and cleaner air.

Best thing to do in Puerto Varas …. Find a coffee or lunch shop near the lake and enjoy the view of Mount Osaro with its snow cape peak. 

Walking around Puerto Varas which was pretty small town was a delight on its own if you appreciate quiet and peaceful rows after rows of old houses in its old form.

Bus Station in Puerto Varas 

Hunt for a bus ticket to Santiago further surprised me. There was no central bus station in Puerto Varas although the local tourist map marked it out. 

Bus Company all have their own individual place where the bus would stop or pick up and mostly it was just a house along a street. That was how quint Puerto Varas is. 

I manage to get a ticket for the next day to Santiago at night for a mere 15000 peso. Another nice surprise since I knew from Puerto Montt it would had cost at least 25000.

Looking at Mount Osaro from Puerto Varas 

My Navimag Journey

To tell the story right I would have to go back about a month, back to when I was still in Brazil going insane trying to fix a route though Argentina. 

I had about 1 month left in South America and the end target was Santiago for I had a scheduled flight out to Miami from there. Where to go what to see and sadly what to give a skip and miss.

Bueno Aires was a must, but I also wanted to see a little of Uruguay and then there was Mendoza, and Barriloche, Santa Fe, Cordoba, Catamarca, Rosario, Mar Del Plata, Rawson, Puerto Madryn, Ushuaia, …. and the list goes on. 

What do I know about these places? Well there was just places on the google map which was how I did most of my journey planning. By means of google map I also notice there was a little dotted line going out of Bueno Aires to Colonia which got me excited knowing it was a ship route. 

It started me thinking of other possibility and looking at South America map, the straits of Chile with its jagged knife of broken blade, I figured that it would be an incredible journey to do that strait by boat if there is one. 

I found that dotted line from Puerto Montt to Puerto Natales. Further keyword search using google I found Navimag Boats. From that point on all my route planning went about to get onto that Navimag Boat. 

The Heart Break in Ushuaia

When I reached Ushuaia I notice the Navimag Logo at some tour agency and could not resist trying to book a spot. The boat was full …. Or at least the cabin I could afford (Cheapest of USD450) was no longer available and the next upgrade was USD 1000.

Like a heartbroken lover I did not gave up immediately …. Maybe at Puerto Natales the port where the boat departs the company itself might have space if not the ticket agent. I’ll give it a go I thought and started planning a contingency plan along the way. 

I Got A TICKET !!!

While walking around Puerto Natales and trying to find the Navimag Ferry office, my head was going over all the contingency plans, for at this point I had more or less set my soul to be disappointed and the back-up plan was becoming more and more intricate by the minute. 

The chance of me getting a ticket was very very slim. We have 5 space left for the cheapest USD 450 cabin, the ticket girl said to me ….

My Jaw dropped and for a moment, I could not believe it was happening. I bought the ticket immediately and paid with MasterCard and could not stop grinning the whole day. I could now just lay back and relax waiting for the boat to depart. 

3 days later when I thought I would be on the boat and stress free for 4 days looking at beautiful sights along the Chilean Straits, I was informed at the check in counter that the boat was delayed due to bad weather. 

The boat won’t arrive for another 2 days they think, and might not make the journey to Puerto Montt in one piece. OK the last part was my imagination running wild again.

They could give me a full refund they said if I wanted …. Or I could wait …. Luckily for me I still had a bit of buffer time and could wait another two days but any further delay for even one day would mean me missing a crucial flight from Santiago to Miami. 

People was cancelling one after another for they did not have the luxury of time. The boat was now very empty and some good complainers were getting free upgrades for the delay.

I stuck around and kept my hopes up that the boat will arrived with no further complications.

The Navimag Boat - Eden 

Life on the Navimag Deck 

The boat arrived two days later as promised and I marvel at the cargo ship called Eden that would be my home for the next 4 days. 

I realized I have never been on a cruise boat before and although Navimag Boat is not technically a cruise ship but really a cargo ship, it was still the largest boat I was going to be on. 

I was having second thoughts about the boat ride now that I was on the boat. Bad weather and cargo boat would mean probably rock like shit and me would be puking like shit as well. 

4 days of no escape and with bad weather. The suffering could be prolonged endlessly. Motion sickness pills are useless in these situation when it’s too long a journey and when the boat won’t even let you sleep by tossing you out of bed it might be hell on ship ride instead of a beautiful journey. Well too late to turn back now.

Board and explore with all the rest of the people on board all strolling around, looking in and out every nook and corner, doors, rooms, toilets, kitchens, tv room, lounge, deck, upper deck, under deck, everyone looking for that special secluded spot that is wind sheltered, rain sheltered, with a lovely view and smoking allowed (the last one is me) 

The boat was not due to depart till the next day evening although we were all on board and check into our respective cabins. 

4 days of journey but they allow you to sleep in the night before and the night you arrived at the next port as well hence it was a 4 day 5 nights journey which was good in saving accommodation money.

Very fast on the first day we all knew this boat ride was going to be a long and boring one. No entertainment other than a general TV room and definitely no internet access. Somewhat it was also refreshing to be back to old school and disconnected from the world for a while. 

Travel Different with Navimag

Travel different was the theme of Navimag Boat and it was one of a kind alright. The journey through the Chilean Straits was one of the most beautiful scenery I had ever seen on the whole of my journey. I enjoyed every lovely rainy day on that boat.

Chilean Straits 

Shipwreck along the Chilean Straits 

First day since we departed late in the evening the boat ride was not really eventful and I was binge chasing all the TV episode I had downloaded to the computer for time wasting.

By the 2nd day morning I had no more shows to watch and had to switch to reading instead. 2nd day was lovely, for morning after breakfast, I spotted a whale. 

Not sure what kind of whale or even if it was an Orca but it was spurting every few minutes. Not a very active whale which kinda makes me think it was sleeping. A few whales in fact together. 

Later in the afternoon we spotted dolphins and many times too along the way. The scenery also was one crazy view looking at all the isolated places and snow-capped mountains, waterfalls from melted snow and untouched nature. 

Evening of the 2nd day and we had a stop in a small village called Puerto Eden where only a boat can get to it. The boat unloaded some cargo for the village and we were only allowed to see from deck and not to go ashore.

Puerto Eden 

Night came on the 2nd day with a surprise. By 9 pm the boat was approaching the Gulf of Menos which was the place that cause the boat to be delayed in the first place. Boat started rocking more and more and I went to bed early popping a seasick tablet but still could feel the heavy movement non-stop. 

By morning 9am we were almost cleared of Gulf of Menos ( the open sea ) and was slowly heading back into the sheltered channels. The boat rocking reduced thankfully and I survived the hardest part of the journey without puking. Yay.

A Typical Dinner on the Navimag Boat 

The ships food was way too good to be true. Most of us on the boat wonders why some reviews and comments on the internet says that the food was horrible because the group of us that seems to always dine together find the food superbly marvellous, rich and tasty. 

First day morning breakfast and there was always ham, cheese bread, butter, yoghurt and one cooked dish of sort either soup or scramble eggs. 

Lunch and dinner was more or less stapled with a vegetable plate, soup, bread, desert, and a main dish of meat and carbs (either rice or potato). 

I keep swapping to vegetarian when the meat was beef and even those were lovely. In a way I guess the people who did not like the boat are those that are used to luxury cruise boats and this was more of a cargo boat with a few place to spare for passengers. 

In fact I think they could care less if there were any passengers. We were a side dish, lovely to enjoy but not the main course of the boat.

Times flies doing nothing on the boat. Before we knew, it was already the fourth day and last day of the journey. 3rd night was fun thou for they had Saturday Karaoke night and although not a crazy party but more of a shy sort of crowd it was still entertaining after so many days lazing around just reading a book. 

In a way everyone was glad for the little variety that the Karaoke had to offer. Dock at Puerto Montt in the late evening of the fourth day a few passengers decided to head off while the majority of us took advantage of a free night stay. 

Next morning we all parted ways in Puerto Montt and I would do it all over again if I ever find myself in Chile in the southern region of Patagonia.

My Time about Puerto Natales

I finally made it to Puerto Natales. The main goal for this place was all for that 4 days boat ride on Navimag along the straits of Chile to Puerto Montt. 

A long story for the next post My Navimag Journey. Still I was here in Puerto Natales and after getting my tickets for the Navimag Boat which was only due to leave 3 days later I had a choice to make. To track Torres Del Paine or to just laze about.

Puerto Natales 

Torres Del Paine

Torres Del Paine was the reason people goes to Puerto Natales. It was the base camp for the amazing track into one of the national park of Patagonia which was filled with breath taking views. 

The famous peak of Three Fingers and if you read between the lines this place is bound to f*ck up most travelers plan that give them that ave of happiness. Torres Del Paine was actually a hikers and campers heaven not a backpackers one.

Welcome to Patagonia where nothing is predictable. You need a good 5 days to do Torres Del Paine and proper camping gear to survive it. That or a hell a lot of money a good luck.

Everything could be rented in Puerto Natales for a price or one could go luxury on cottages they call Refugio only bookable from local agents all along the park. 

One thing for certain is that nothing is confirm till you get to Puerto Natales and then you have to be lucky in three parts to be able to see amazing Torres Del Paine.

Lucky part one is weather …. Pray to all gods that you get good weather else that will be the first torment of the beautiful National Park. 

Lucky part two is gear or cottages. Hope there is space on camping ground or cottages else you will have to hang around in Puerto Natales till there is and that is tied to lucky part 3 which is that you have time to hang around. I was not lucky in all three parts.

Day Trip’s On a Minivan to Torres Del Paine I chose the next best alternative, instead of hiking inside the Torres Del Paine National park I decided to go old folks and kid’s day tour on a minivan. 

This is not the same as hiking the majestic national park and seeing the glaciers up-close and getting that amazing sunrise view at the peak of three fingers and getting in touch with nature camping in the wild. But it was the only time frame activity that permit for me.

So I stupidly buy a ticket for a day trip to Torres Del Paine. With the amount of tourist visiting Patagonia surely the old and very young won’t be trekking around with heavy backpacks on their backs. 

So day trips were invented nowhere near the tracks of Torres Del Paine but along the road towards the national parks and many detours to high vantage Viewpoint that would make viewing possible but photo taking useless as a tiny prick.

Worst is if you happen to be on a bad weather tour you will only see …. Bad weather.

I don’t grudge the tour for they depart every day. I guess it’s destined I’m not to see Torres Del Paine National Park …. At lease this round.

Torres Del Paine - On a Bad weather day you only see bad weather 

Lazing About Puerto Natales ……. To kick me in the nuts while I am down, I got a delayed Navimag boat on the day of departure. I have to wait for another three days in Puerto Natales meaning I had a total of 6 days in Puerto Natales. I could have done Torres Del Paine …… *ARGHHH*


Still I got a good 6 days of lazing around done in Patagonia, catch up on reading, downloading, guitar playing ( the hostel had one) and just pure stoning. It helps when the hostel gives you free breakfast which came with home cooked omelets every morning.

Journey from Ushuaia to Puerto Natales

The bus ride from Ushuaia to Puerto Natales was ARG 950 peso and it was a journey to Chile stopping at Punto Arenas before changing bus to go to Puerto Natales. 

Long journey and expected to arrive late in the evening if everything goes well. For some reason I decided not to book hostels in advance and I guess was lucky for the choice as delays were inevitable in Patagonia.

Same border crossing into Chile and the same drill of custom checks to ensure no fresh food, livestock or illegal stuff was crossing over the other side. Chile was pretty strict when it comes to customs. Immigration was simple and before we knew it were off on our way in Chile territory.

The ferry crossing. 

Ushuaia is not really on the continent but in fact on a damn large island at the southern tip of South America. Therefore if going by land the ferry crossing at Magellan Straits was unavoidable. 

On a good day like the day I travelled from Rio Gallegos to Ushuaia the ferry crossing took 30 minutes with barely any waiting time. On a bad weather day like today going out to Punto Arenas only luck can assist you.

The bus driver meanwhile enjoyed toying with the passenger’s on the bus. If the ferry comes and we leaves this side of the shore before 7pm we should just make it to Punta Arenas for the connecting bus to Puerto Natales at 9pm but else all hope is doomed.

Anxious people on the bus kept looking across the bay and at their watch at the same time. We set our eyes upon the ferry across the strait and try to will it to come to our side. The hours pass and the sun set while the moon rises before the sea weather was good enough for the ferry to make the trip. 

By the full moon that rise across the horizon I was now calm again. I figured that if things go wrong and lots of people are stress out to find a place to stay, or to get the connecting bus I was sure I could just quietly tag along and let them do all the hard work worrying. 

The bus driver was kind enough to help those with hostel bookings in Puerto Natales to call them up and hopefully postpone or cancel their one night booking. Suddenly my stubbornness paid off and I was glad I did not do any booking and was pretty sure I would have a hostel in Punta Arenas with the amount of stranded people around me.

Ferry at Straits of Magellan 

About 10 pm the boat finally arrived once the weather permits and we all rushed to get moving and boy was the ferry rocky as hell for better weather. 

We reached Punta Arenas nicely at 12 midnight and the bus driver said if no one has a place to stay in Punta Arenas he could drive and drop us at the Patagonia Hostel. 

About 10000 Chileno Peso a night and all of us poor stranded souls huddle together and stayed on the bus onwards to the hostel. 

Punta Arenas, I would have love to stop there longer but time did not permit and hence I had decided when in Ushuaia I would skip it entirely other than the connecting bus. 

A sign from above that I had to camp there for the night I guess and the next morning onwards to Puerto Natales. Thou we all shared a cab to get to the bus stop from the hostel I ended up paying the entire fare for the hostel. 

2000 peso for the two people with me had no Chileno peso at all at that time and I was not in the mood to collect.

Bus ticket from Punta Arenas to Puerto Natales fortunately was exchangeable for a new timeslot the next day. By the looks of the bus attendant this was a normal ritual and we all go on for a few hours ride to Puerto Natales.

There is a saying in Patagonia …. You can’t predict the weather here …. Despite what your phone says.

What an exciting day.

Journey to the End of the World – Ushuaia

The bus ride from Puerto Madryn to Rio Gallegos cost me ARG 1008 and by now I notice that money is flying pretty fast in Argentina if you do not travel slowly. Without the blue dollar exchange rate I would be screaming broke by now.

Patagonia Barren Landscape 

18 hours on a semi-cama bus which was a lousy bus with bare minimum food. Landscape out the window looks like a flat plane deserted of any life save a few grass patch here and there. 

Patagonia was not very pretty and the 30% that was pretty, was crowded with tourist. At one point of the bus ride we (the passengers of the bus) nearly died of thirst due to lack of water. 

We were driving for hours and all the water bottle had ran out and looking out the window you know there will be a long way before any civilization that gives you water. People was asking strangers if they could spare water. 

That was how bad it was. Finally a stop and all of us rush out to buy bottled water and I stocked up another bottle just in case.

Bus from Rio Gallegos to Ushuaia 

I also almost froze to death since I forgetfully checked in my jacket and warmer cloths underneath the bus. The bus had heating but I curse the driver who shut it off 4 am in the morning and cause me to wake up due to the pain. So cold that my skin hurts. 

Finally Rio Gallegos stop 18 hours later and I contemplated what I should do. Find a hostel in town for a night to break the journey or ….. I decided to check the bus timing and price to Ushuaia since I was at the bus station anyway. 

It was 9 am in the morning and the sign on the counter reads bus to Ushuaia 830am. I asked the guy at the first counter how much was the ticket and he decided to rush me to the bus outside, chuck my bag pack into the undercarriage and collect ARG 680. 

I did not even receive a ticket for the bus ride from Rio Gallegos to Ushuaia. Apparently the bus was delayed and did not depart at 830 am and had exactly one seat left and I was herded like a lamb.

Rio Gallegos to Ushuaia The journey from Rio Gallegos to Ushuaia took 12 hours by bus and boat and that’s if you are lucky. 

That is the shortest duration without delays but usually it always goes wrong. I found out first hand on the return journey a week later that it is quite common for the ferry crossing to be delayed for 6 to 12 hours if bad weather kicks in. My advice …. Plan to be delayed and you’ll be fine.

Border Crossing From Rio Gallegos to Ushuaia à Argentina – Chile – Argentina The bus ticket takes us through two border crossings. From Argentina into Chile and then out again into Argentina. I guess it’s like Alaska in the states …. Unless you fly then you have to cross Canada to get into Alaska.

First border crossing was from Argentina into Chile. During the bus ride, immigration forms was handed out by a bus attendant and he spoke English, Spanish, Portuguese, fluently. He had a flare of performance entertaining us with his jokes and sarcasm while guiding us along the forms. 

We were warn to discard all fruits, food, meat, juice and particularly illegal stuff such as coca leaf and Marijuana. 

The Mutt Scanner 

Arrive at the border and down the bus we went into the Chile customs first with only our hand carry baggage. We were all lined up in a single file and were told to place out bags at our feet. 

The hi-tech bag scanner was not even on and once we were properly ready for the grill, out came the dog. One cute little mutt and I think that was even tougher to escape than the scanner. If the dog barks you are screwed even if you don’t have anything on you.

Please don’t bark. Sniff Sniff Sniff, all the bags he walk by sniffing one after another for two rounds and a few bags where he linger longer than usual was taken and placed at the counter for further inspection later on. 

The rest of us was allowed to leave but those whose bag was suspicious was held back. Apparently someone forgot to discard all their food. Outside the undercarriage luggage was undergoing the same mutt routine.

Ferry Crossing

We then headed to immigration where Argentina officer and Chile officer sit next to next processing the passports. Stamp out of Argentina and stamp into Chile. Chile side gave an additional slip of paper with a stamp at the back which was to be kept till exit of Chile. 

About an hour bus ride later from the border we came to the ferry crossing. Everyone off the bus, walked onto the ferry while the bus rolled up alongside slowly. 45 minutes of free crossing and we were on our way again driving through Chile

3 hours later the next border crossing from Chile back into Argentina and this time no customs just immigration. Same ordeal and back into Argentina. Loads of stamps collected into the passport now. 

7 hours later we arrived at Ushuaia. I somehow survived 30 hours from Puerto Madryn to Ushuaia. The end of the world ….. Cold ….

Ushuaia 

Border Crossing – Arica to Tacna (Chile to Peru) with a Malaysian Passport

One of the most nerve wrecking time during travels is always crossing borders from one country to another especially when it’s through a tiny border town. 

Information is always scare for border crossing town somehow and even when there is, its bare minimum enough that you have to think twice if the information is reliable. 

Everyone crosses the border differently (due to different passport) and crossing like a local is always the aim.

Exit at Chile Imigration 

So I camped in Arica one night the border town of Chile before crossing over to Tacna the border town of Peru.

There are a few ways to cross the border between Arica and Tacna such as Train, Bus and Taxi but I can only share my experience crossing with a Taxi and base on the local recommendation it is the best method. 

Not the cheapest but then again it was pretty cheap to cross by taxi. The International taxi stand is right beside the main bus station which is where I got the shared taxi. 

They call it “Taxi Colectivo” which means you share the taxi with random strangers crossing the border. The cost is written on the board so any taxi you take will be the same 4000 peso for the trip. 

However there is a departure tax leaving the International taxi stand and that is 300 peso which you have to pay at the booth on the right side immediate after entering the front door and get a coupon for exit which is handed over to the taxi driver.

The taxi driver also acts like a guide and would get your forms for entry to Peru ready plus he would also guide you step by step where to go (queue up) to cross the border. 

Facing Immigration thou is on your own so smile.

Getting out of Chile was pretty easy for as long you did not overstay or did not lose the slip of paper during entry they would just stamp you out. Onwards to Peru border and the officer looked at me and my passport.

Malaysia ?? …. Malaysia Passport is rare crossing the local border of Chile and Peru and I guess I was not surprise that he was not sure if I needed a Visa or not. 

The officer called over the counter to another ranking officer and asked if he knew anything about Malaysia passport

(Conversation in Spanish which I interpreted as such)

Officer 1 : Have you ever done Malaysia before ?
Officer 2 : Yea sure …. No problems the usual …
Officer 1 : Does he need a visa ?
Officer 2 : Nope just the usual stamp in ….
Officer 1 : How many days should I give him ?
Officer 2 : Dunnu ?? Ask him how many days he is visiting Peru
Officer 1 : How many days are you visiting Peru ( He asked in Spanish …. Then in English )
Me : One month ??
STAMP … Ok 30 days visa …. Dammit I should have said two months ….

No Visa Required for Malaysian Passport to Peru and definitely no payment / bribes necessary

Tacna the taxi driver will drop you off in front of the bus station or nearby it. I had to get a general direction pointed before leaving the cab. 

Border Crossing was easy and not as crazy as I thought it would be. Oh yea and there is a 2 hours time difference between Chile and Peru so factor that in when crossing.
Some things to note though which I was lucky enough due to paranoia

Money …..

I did not see any money changer nor any ATM in Tacna …. Lucky thing I change bare minimum CLP 10,000 to Sol 46.30 at the bus station in Arica. 

Bus from Tacna to Arequipa was Sol 30 local bus Morqueque taking about 10 hours to arrive. Taxi from Arequipa bus stop to the main plaza is about Sol 8 and its worth it for its damn hell far. 

ATM at the bus station of Arequipa does not always works such as when I was there so I could not get any money out of it. So I survived and reach the hostel with almost no Peruvian currency on me ….. 

Good thing is the main Plaza Del Arms is filled with banks which runs 24 hours and is pretty safe. Look for Scotia Bank which does not charge any fee for withdrawing using international ATM Card ….

Hope this helps any Malaysian Passport Holders trying to cross from Arica to Tacna 

The Place to Chill Out - Iquique , Chile

Iquique is a beautiful town where the Andes Mountain steeps all the way to the sea. The coastal line was beautiful waves for surfers and lot of people just hang around the beach sun bathing, playing football, beach tennis, skating along the boardwalk, cycling, running … a beautiful, muin bonito place to relax.

Sunset at Iquique 

Should I visit Iquique? When I asked this question numerous times most answers I got was that there was nothing to do there but the beach is beautiful. 

I decided to trust my tired sore gut and give Iquique a try and was rewarded with a lovely place to just chill back and relax. Iquique however is not a town I would call nothing to do there. 

There is surfing which the waves looks best in the evening and uniform, Paragliding which looks amazing as they fly from the top of the Andes Mountain all the way down to the beach for at least 30 minutes in the air, Duty free shopping which was awkward as the Mall was huge as hell and sell the most bizarre compilation of junk I have ever seen in one shopping mall.

Going downtown and some nice old building to walk around, a casino, and a safe compact city to explore. My favorite pastime was just going to the beach at sunset.

Most people go on a day trip to the Ghost Town nearby but I would say Iquique is a good place to stop and lay back awhile after a long travel.

City of Iquique

The unexpected bike ride to Laguna Cejar

Last day in San Pedro de Atacama and I had a whole day to burn waiting for the bus to depart at 7pm. Hanging around the hostel I made two new friends, Xav and Greta. 

I seem to be always telling people about food and where to get them since I somehow have a nose to find cheap local food out of the gringo trail even at San Pedro. 

Funny thing is that most of the time the locals are just park next to the tourist places, around the corner. Greta and Xav and they were convince to follow me for lunch for the unbelievable 2000 peso

Waiting at the hostel for the 2pm for lunch for the eating place was not ready, Greta said she wanted to do a bike ride to Laguna Cejar the salt lake so salty ( even more than the dead sea ) and was trying to figure out if she could catch the bus at 8pm. 

My bus was 7 pm and I was not about to risk it. 2 hours there and 2 hours back by bicycle was what the hostel guy advised.
We went for lunch where both of them could not believe the amount of food for that kinda price. 

After lunch I tagged along while Greta and Xav went to the bike shop. While they were discussing how much the bike would cost a German couple came back covered in salt. 

Xav asked how long it took and they say an hour ride and if you pump it maybe 45minutes. I was tempted then …. One cheaper bike ride instead of a tour with good company. Fuck it lets do it.

Laguna Cejar 

So I was biking like crazy forgetting that I was a smoker with lousy lungs that never exercise and was at high altitude of 2300m in the middle of a blazing dessert. About 20km of dirt road in blazing hot and dry dessert I survived and we all reached the salt lake. 

Then we all went for a dip in the salt lake. It was really buoyant so much that it was difficult to swim as there was a high tendency to pop up. Even turning was hard as we laugh our ass off trying to move here and there. 

It was even awkward swimming. Getting out of the lake the salt would crystalized all over the body making it tingle and itch.

The view of the volcano at the background with no one around but the 3 of us plus maybe 4 other people far on the other side of the lake made the bike ride worth it. 

4pm came and it was time to head back else I would have missed the bus. Just as we were about to head back busses after busses came streaming in from the tour company. 

The tours was visiting the salt lake all at the same time and suddenly the lake was flooded with tourist. Not so serene after that but we had our smile that we would not be sharing the lake with that crowd.

Back to the hostel and a quick shower I got to the bus station just in time to rest my aching butt for the 10 hours bus ride to Iquique.

View of the Andes Mountain at Laguna Cejar 

Geyser Del Tatio, San Pedro de Atacama - Chile

San Pedro is super touristy for a desert town. There was almost more tourist then locals and as you can guess the locals took advantage of the new hype to supplement their income. 

Tourist not only to the Gringo but also to the neighboring Latin America countries. Hot desert very dry air almost everything dusty and rustic and about to crumble and flooded with tourist from everywhere. I did not like it but since I was here might as well do something

Geysers Del Tatio 

So walking around the gringo street where all the tour agency gathers around and could speak somewhat English try to lure you to purchase a tour or tours. The more tours the more discount, it was crazy and I thought it was very costly as well with the cheapest tour about 7000 peso. 

Cheapest package I found was 45000 peso for 4 different tours but it means I will be stuck in San Pedro for at least 4 days. Tours don’t include entrance fee to the national park as well so if one took the 4 tour package then another 20000 peso can be expected for entrance fee.

The four tours were not the only one around and supplemented by others more adventurous and off the tracks which cost more money. 

I decided to just go for one at San Pedro which was the Geysers de Tatio at elevation of 4300m above sea level. The geysers shoot out or boil out from below the ground due to the hot magma running underneath. 

San Pedro was about 2300m altitude and I jumped on the tour the 2nd day in the morning there at 4.30am not caring about acclimatizing or altitude sickness.

I was a bit concerned that my body would not take it or acclimatized properly but then I did not want to spend time in an expensive gringo infested tourist city. 

The journey in the morning at 430am was pretty alright till a certain point when we nearly reach the place. I first got stomach cramps like the one that urge you to go to the toilet to let one big one rip but then when I got it under control, I got cold shivers. 

I was cold and shivering but I was sweating. Closed my eyes and just focus, hold that asshole in to not soil myself and just bear with the shivers. As fast as it came a few minutes later it was ok again other than the crazy urge and need for a toilet bowl.

We reached and thank the stars, there was a toilet at the entrance of the Geyser de Tatio National park entrance. Everyone went for a toilet break and I let that F*cker shit ripped and discharged from my body. 

Suddenly everything is ok. I think for me altitude sickness was a like a really bad hangover in the morning. Nothing like a big dump, some food and a cigarette to sober up

Latin Tourist wanted a picture with me at the Geysers 

Geysers at 6am was freezing cold but thankfully it was not minus so I could still bear with it with my summer gear layering up (3 layers). It was spectacular to see all the boiling geysers steaming in the morning and photos was a sacrilege that must be taken on a tour. 

To my surprise while trying to get someone to take my photo for me the uncle sitting beside me, his wife with their son asked me to take a family photo for them. 

I took the picture and then I was somehow in the picture and I was standing there taking pictures with different combination and poses and we all became friends without ever speaking a word of Spanish or English. 

I did manage to get that they were a family from Ecuador on a holiday. Next was the hot pool, constructed to collect water from the geysers and discharge continuously. It was a marvelous idea and a splendid way to wake up in high altitude in a cold morning. 

Once everyone had their enjoyment of a dip for an hour we headed off with the bus on the journey back to San Pedro.

A Hot-spring at the Geysers of San Pedro De Atacama 

The bus driver was one cheerful guy and would detour and stop and gave lots of explanation of San Pedro de Atacama and its wildlife but this was all in Spanish of course. 

We saw llamas, vicuna, bischucha, eagles, valleys form by tectonic plate movement and so much more that I could not understand. 

Back to San Pedro at 1pm and that was the end of the tour and the beginning of my preparation to head on to the next town Iquique.

Dangers in Chile – Coquimbo & Valparaiso

Danger Sign in Chile 

How dangerous is another country one would wonder sometimes before deciding to pay it a visit. I tend to think any danger around the world is the same back home since mugging, kidnapping, pickpocket is almost everywhere and unless one truly ignore the street wise instinct it is mostly uncommon to think it could happen.

News and television or even the internet nowadays gives off the scariest story and those story are the one that get the most highlight so I tend to ignore them thinking it is a rare thing, so rare I treat it as winning the lottery. 

Imagine being on a craigslist like in Australia where a homicidal maniac pick up backpackers hitchhikers only to slowly gut their life away for pleasure. Almost unthinkable since I believe the human nature is kind hearted.

The first encounter of danger was actually in Valparaiso where such dumb tourist like me and friends would pick a spot on the map and wonder in that direction.

Danger - HOT 

What’s over there? Let’s check it out?

Chile I would say is really a safe place such that if you wander into a bad neighborhood the locals will give dumb tourist fair warning. 

So in Valparaiso when we wondered into such one where they would mug or even worst kill you the locals tried their best to warn us which we mistakenly took it as be careful of pick pockets. 

Yes sure thank you we will be careful. One would think if you see children wandering about the place would be safe enough.
Walking on deeper into the bad neighbourhood of Valparaiso two young girls whistle to us and blocked our path. 

They spoke only Spanish and we did not understand shit but baring our path and not letting us go was an indicator. Suddenly the international sign of cutting one’s throat a finger slicing the neck was shown and big waves of saying no and pointing to the direction we were heading made it very clear that this was a bad neighborhood. 

Fair Warning. U-Turn and never step foot in that territory again.
I picked up one word in Spanish in that encounter … Peligro – Danger

The second such encounter was in Coquimbo a day trip from La Serena which was only 20 minutes away, coastal town with a beautiful Crux on the top of the hill. 

The town was small but every path that leads to the top of the Hill and the Crux (Big Cross) had beautiful winding steps leading up and into the neighborhood district and eventually the top of the hill. 

I knew the view would be worth the climb. Heading to one of the step, same thing happen. Walking on just at the base of the steps and I saw family with children and nice people going up so I thought it should be alright but our path was barred this time as well by a local tourist police. 

They was not even on duty and was just having a cigarette break but seeing us intending to head up the hill they immediately called and stopped us. 

All the explanation in the world and I could not understand but when I said the word Peligro it was responded with firm head nodding and a grim line of the mouth. 

More explanation but that was all I needed to hear to be convince to turn around and head back. If someone ask me if Chile was safe …. I would say very safe for even dumb tourist gets protected more than the locals. 

As long as you head good advices and don’t be an idiot no harm will come to you. Just have to admire the Crux from down below

Eating at a Locals House. Pisco Elqui of Valle de Elqui

What did I know about this place? I came here on a whim due to a fellow traveller recommendation and it was in the middle of nowhere, superbly small and beautiful, plantation in the valley of the Andes Mountains but still pretty high up that the sun would burn you without warning and worst of all I had no idea if there was a hostel or not in this place.

Pisco Elqui 

Normally I would at lease research the place just to set up a backup plan but this time I had none for the internet says there is no Hostel. Walking up the road where the bus drop me off I saw some locals.

‘Hostal’ I asked?? …… pointed up the road …..

Phew I was saved, there is a hostel at lease so I walked on and saw the first sign ‘Kristen Hostel’. Check in - I felt a relieved that I would be able to relax after a long overnight bus ride from Valparaiso, avoiding trouble from the securidad and another 2 hours bumpy ride on a microbus.

Pisco Elqui was very small, you could see the entire town in less than 10 minutes and easily wondered into the next town walking and the next and the next and suddenly you are very far away from the starting point. 

Other than tours there is not much to do. Stargazing at night became my favorite past time in Pisco Elqui for it was so high up in elevation and had one of the most clearest non polluted sky in the world.

Google Say: - Southern Cross … look for the brightest start that form a cross …

There was just too many stars and all of them was bright as hell …. Too bad my crappy camera phone can’t capture any of this … just have to burn it into memory, or a blog.

Things I Found in Pisco Elqui

The first thing after dumping my bag in the hostel I had to venture out for food. Walking down the street a suspicious looking guy hanging around at the junction move in to block my way and started talking (in Spanish). 

I think I have perfected my blur look by now and the locals would know when I had no clue what they were saying. The guy was persistence and out came the sign language and I could finally make out what he was saying …. Food ??? Lunch ???

Do not follow a suspicious looking guy that offer you food …..
That would be my advice to fellow traveler but then again I did the exact opposite and follow him thinking he would bring me to a restaurant. 

He brought me to a normal looking house and pointed at his shutter door which had a piece of paper stuck onto it …. Comida it said which means Food in Spanish and a price tag of 1500 peso. 

Into a stranger house I followed, must be the too long bus ride that my head was messed up but I was glad for he was genuinely selling me …. Lunch ….

Sat down in the family dining room, his mother I think came out and started scooping things out of the pot preparing my meal. Warm smiles and many question in Spanish but most I could not understand.

Chino? He pointed and asked ,,,,, No I said ….. Malaysia … Ahhhhh …. That was the most conversation we had …

So that’s was how I found out in Chile people sell food out of their home with simple notices place outside their house. After that in every city in Chile that I go I would hunt for a cheap local food in family homes.

Superbly Local ….

 

Trouble with a Securidad in La Serena Bus Stop

Hopped off the bus at 5am in the morning from Valparaiso to La Serena and I was contemplating if I should just stay here or move on to Pisco Elqui as suggested by fellow travellers.

Hanging around waiting for sunrise I was undecided with both options keep playing around my mind. My urge to smoke while thinking finally kicked in when day break and I walk outside to roll a cigarette.

Pisco Elqui 

A piece of rolling paper, some tobacco and a filter …. While twirling the tobacco around two security guards for the bus station walked up to me, their backs label Securidad in Spanish. 

One pointed to the cigarette I was rolling and rumble off in Spanish while I just shrug and gave him by dumbest look.
Ma ri ju a na ? The security guard asked pointing to my half rolled cigarette?

Apparently rolling a cigarette is not common in Chile and I was going to be in trouble for a misunderstanding. I said NO … cigarraggio, cigarette, cigarros ….. trying to get him to understand. 

Ma ri ju a na ? The security guard said again with a big grin on his face with full confident that I was guilty

I said no and push the pack of tobacco to his hand and gestured the sign for smell for yourself. The tobacco was mint flavoured so it had a minty smell which was even rarer and confused the shit out of the guard. 

Roll one I said offering him paper and filter. He seem to understand and slowly rolled one pondering if this was a cigarette or a joint. “Fumar?” I offered my lighter. 

First puff and his had a deep appreciation on his face of the cigarette that he just rolled but all doubts of it being marijuana has vanish.

“Equisito” he said … Huh ???? after a few round of repeating the words again and again I understood … exquisite …. The cigarette was exquisite for it was not common. But then I bought it in Chile, Santiago for way too cheap.

We became friends after that I think with him providing me his personal protection while trying to communicate such as where I was from where I am going, what's my name, what the fuck am I doing in Chile …. 

He even went to as far to act out an action with another guy just to show me how a greeting is done in Spanish. He ended up helping me find the bus to Pisco Elqui which was the first bus at 830 am and send me off with a big grin …. 

Dumb Malaysian who can’t speak Spanish rolling an exquisite cigarette

To Pisco Elqui on a microbus for 3500 peso

Making Friends & Meeting up On the Road

Sending Danny and Mary off at night as they head back to Santiago from their Valparaiso day trip I was a bit sad knowing I would be alone again and company in a country where I was a dumb mute was hard to come by. 

Going back to the hostel it was an early night and the first rest since nearly 2 weeks. Morning breakfast and I bump into the two friendly German Couple from Santiago walking tour. PeeWee and Bro. 

From across the living room while checking in they yelled HEY …. And I just had the dumbest Grin on my face. I thought that the Santiago Walking Tour people was haunting me …..

Still I left them after breakfast since they went for the Valparaiso walking tour that I had already done. The little Lithuanian girl which was below my bunk was laughing her ass off seeing me wake up in the morning. 

I did not wake up till 1130 am and still was moody as well. It was my first good rest in weeks anyway and everyone was already out of the dorm. 

What are you doing today?

Now if you have been a traveler long enough, this question shall not be asked simply especially to someone that genuinely look like he had no plans. 

This is because the question is also a kind of invitation to join in another’s persons plan. I had no plans and that’s what I told her … first try to wake up then breakfast then …. Sniff the wind

Well I am planning to …… bla bla bla

If the first question and answer may get one away from an uninvited invitation the second phrase I see it as open invitation. I jumped at it of course and thus made a new friend with a little Lithuanian girl name Vio.

That Monday was a holiday so although we walked to many places everything was close. The view point at #Funicular Accessor Palanco was amazing. Tucked at the far left corner high up in Valparaiso it gave the best view we ever saw from anywhere. 

Nothing much there other than the view and loads and loads of graffiti in every nook and corner. I bought the cheapest lunch I had in Chile for 600 peso a huge hotdog stuffed with things I do not dwell on. 

Best part to the view was there was a bench so we sat there had lunch a couple smokes and started heading back walking slowly through the non-touristy neighborhood of Valparaiso.

View from Acessor Palanco 

Violet was a craving seafood so we hunted for a seafood restaurant near the port. Things really close early in Chile but we saw a huge fish sign and a pirate hanging outside one shop. 

Going in I think we got cursed but we had no idea. Apparently the shop was close and we just walked in while the owners and friends was having a drinking session. 

They offered so many things for us to try while we were having dinner I was wondering if we should join their drinking session. 2 shots of Pisco sour, a shot of minty alcohol and another that I think tasted like plum whisky. The seafood was a bit pricy but fantastic.

Graffiti Art around Valparaiso 

Getting back to the hostel walking into the dorm, A girl jumped Vio grabbed her and asked :

Do you remember me?

Girls with their squeals jumping and laughing and screaming.

That’s when I met Dio. Dio and Viol travelled together or at lease party together somewhere in South America but never manage to exchange contact so the chance coincidence of meeting someone you had fun with before by pure chance in the same hostel and the same dorm in fact was amazing as if the stars aligned themselves.

BBQ that night and it was like a nice cocktail party with churrasco which is tiny hot dogs. Vino was poured freely with the hostel staff keeping tabs. We drank and smoke mingling with everyone in the hostel and talk of all the useless stuff everyone had experience before such as …

“I bought a AK-47 in Lithuania” – Dio

“I got to know my wife, fucked her, had a baby, got married and now I am saving up for a ring – in that order” - Santiago

“Anything can happen in South America” – Wink

Next day Dio left for the walking tour in the morning without Vio. Never make plans and arrangement when you are drinking …. Someone will probably get a wrong message or forgotten about it and that was what exactly happen. 

I was the grumpy boy again in the morning trying my best to wake up. Checked out and now what …. I had a whole day in Valparaiso before the bus leave at 1130pm

Vio had some plans to visit some museum or something and I was dragged into it eventually since I manage to woken up. Halfway walking there I decided to detour and bring Violet to the slide I first saw on the first day. 

Along the way we saw a group which was the walking tour. Pausing I saw Dio and waved ….. and between me and Vio stole her away from the walking tour.

You falling asleep yet ??(From the walking tour)?? Just ditch and come with us …. We are going to a slide ….

Slide ???

Yea it was an awesome slide and we were kids again for a moment.

The Slide