The bus ride from Puerto Madryn to Rio Gallegos cost me ARG
1008 and by now I notice that money is flying pretty fast in Argentina if you
do not travel slowly. Without the blue dollar exchange rate I would be
screaming broke by now.
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| Patagonia Barren Landscape |
18 hours on a semi-cama bus which was a lousy bus with bare
minimum food. Landscape out the window looks like a flat plane deserted of any
life save a few grass patch here and there. Patagonia was not very pretty and
the 30% that was pretty, was crowded with tourist.
At one point of the bus ride we (the passengers of the bus)
nearly died of thirst due to lack of water. We were driving for hours and all
the water bottle had ran out and looking out the window you know there will be
a long way before any civilization that gives you water. People was asking
strangers if they could spare water. That was how bad it was. Finally a stop
and all of us rush out to buy bottled water and I stocked up another bottle
just in case.
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| Bus from Rio Gallegos to Ushuaia |
I also almost froze to death since I forgetfully checked in
my jacket and warmer cloths underneath the bus. The bus had heating but I curse
the driver who shut it off 4 am in the morning and cause me to wake up due to
the pain. So cold that my skin hurts.
Finally Rio Gallegos stop 18 hours later and I contemplated
what I should do. Find a hostel in town for a night to break the journey or …..
I decided to check the bus timing and price to Ushuaia since I was at the bus
station anyway. It was 9 am in the morning and the sign on the counter reads bus
to Ushuaia 830am. I asked the guy at the first counter how much was the ticket
and he decided to rush me to the bus outside, chuck my bag pack into the
undercarriage and collect ARG 680. I did not even receive a ticket for the bus
ride from Rio Gallegos to Ushuaia. Apparently the bus was delayed and did not
depart at 830 am and had exactly one seat left and I was herded like a lamb.
Rio Gallegos to
Ushuaia
The journey from Rio Gallegos to Ushuaia took 12 hours by
bus and boat and that’s if you are lucky. That is the shortest duration without
delays but usually it always goes wrong. I found out first hand on the return
journey a week later that it is quite common for the ferry crossing to be
delayed for 6 to 12 hours if bad weather kicks in. My advice …. Plan to be
delayed and you’ll be fine.
Border Crossing
From Rio Gallegos to Ushuaia à Argentina – Chile – Argentina
The bus ticket takes us through two border crossings. From
Argentina into Chile and then out again into Argentina. I guess it’s like Alaska
in the states …. Unless you fly then you have to cross Canada to get into
Alaska.
First border crossing was from Argentina into Chile. During
the bus ride, immigration forms was handed out by a bus attendant and he spoke
English, Spanish, Portuguese, fluently. He had a flare of performance
entertaining us with his jokes and sarcasm while guiding us along the forms. We
were warn to discard all fruits, food, meat, juice and particularly illegal
stuff such as coca leaf and Marijuana.
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| The Mutt Scanner |
Arrive at the border and down the bus we went into the Chile
customs first with only our hand carry baggage. We were all lined up in a
single file and were told to place out bags at our feet. The hi-tech bag
scanner was not even on and once we were properly ready for the grill, out came
the dog. One cute little mutt and I think that was even tougher to escape than
the scanner. If the dog barks you are screwed even if you don’t have anything
on you.
Please don’t bark.
Sniff Sniff Sniff, all the bags he walk by sniffing one after
another for two rounds and a few bags where he linger longer than usual was
taken and placed at the counter for further inspection later on. The rest of us
was allowed to leave but those whose bag was suspicious was held back.
Apparently someone forgot to discard all their food. Outside the undercarriage
luggage was undergoing the same mutt routine.
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| Ferry Crossing |
We then headed to immigration where Argentina officer and
Chile officer sit next to next processing the passports. Stamp out of Argentina
and stamp into Chile. Chile side gave an additional slip of paper with a stamp
at the back which was to be kept till exit of Chile.
About an hour bus ride later from the border we came to the
ferry crossing. Everyone off the bus, walked onto the ferry while the bus
rolled up alongside slowly. 45 minutes of free crossing and we were on our way
again driving through Chile
3 hours later the next border crossing from Chile back into
Argentina and this time no customs just immigration. Same ordeal and back into
Argentina. Loads of stamps collected into the passport now. 7 hours later we
arrived at Ushuaia. I somehow survived 30 hours from Puerto Madryn to Ushuaia.
The end of the world ….. Cold ….
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| Ushuaia |
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