Although I just experience the lousy overnight train in
Europe recently from Krakow to Budapest I was more or less force to do it again
from Belgrade to Sofia. They had only two trains running per day. One in the
morning and one at night and base on the internet advice, the trains would
depart on time but arrival is a question mark.
Overnight Train from Belgrade to Sofia
Train Station in Belgrade |
Figuring I do not want to arrive in Sofia in the middle of
the morning I decided to get the night train instead … this time the sleeper
coach was full hence I had to just get a seat.
Overnight Train from Belgrade to Sofia
The train ride turn out to be an adventure of sorts.
Arriving at the train station I found the platform easy enough but it was
surprisingly only a two carriage train. One carriage for sleeper class and
another for seated. Upon boarding I notice a few backpackers already arguing
with the locals for the seats.
Some had seats reservation and some did not.
Most of the Locals did not have any seat reservation and was abusing the kind
hearted backpackers which was mostly polite and confuse at the same time.
Eventually thou all gloves was off and loud argument kicks in before the
conductor reluctantly budge in.
I got to my compartment easy enough and was greeted by a
single elderly lady in the whole compartment standing at the door blocking
passage. To everyone passing by she was saying it is full and the people who
booked the seats are coming. Ironically enough she said the same thing to me as
well …. Eyebrow raised I double checked my ticket and it was clear I was in
that compartment.
Peng I would call her for I now, let me in once she verified
I was indeed in that compartment. She and her husband Milo was from South
Africa and they were on a bicycle tour from starting from Europe. Milo was up
front securing the bikes and making sure no jackass ran away with it while the
train was still at the platform.
For a train that was so fully packed our compartment was the
only one that was vastly empty. Peng keep blocking passage and not allowing
anyone into the compartment. She whispered to me that Milo and her had booked
four seats in that compartment although there was only two of them successfully
blocking out poor people outside from having a free seat.
This I need to explain which is a bit complicated in Europe
for first timers. There is a ticket for travelling on the train and then there
is a ticket for seat reservation. The first is a must for travel but does not
ensure a seat or even a place on the train. First come first serve basis and
people crowded the train like crazy everywhere along the corridors, toilets,
any space they could find. The second ensures a place either a seat or a bunk
bed and Milo Peng had found a way to cheat the system. I thought for a moment did
I somehow ended up in India without knowing ??? would I see people on the roof
of the train when I wake up?
Buying only two ticket for travelling for both of them and
paying for 4 seat reservation they were ensuring they had two seats to sleep
comfortably instead of sleeping upright. The irony of it is that the second
ticket, the seat reservation ticket only cost 3 euro per seat …. Peanut to
those who have money I might think when in the Balkans.
So not surprising that Peng was trying her best to prevent
people without any seat reservation from taking up free seats. Inconsiderate
you might call it but I guess it was fair game and I stayed away from the
argument. After all I would be happy to not have any dodgy character in the
compartment. Peng did however gave in to a Dutch girl backpacker and gave her
one seat in our compartment … Daviela.
Then the last of the last Teodora from
Bulgaria came, check the window and was about to come in before Peng on auto
pilot said that the cabin was full. Poor confused Teodora continue walking and
I told Milo Peng that she had a seat reservation and was obvious that she was
in this compartment. Milo chased her down and she came in to our Six seat
compartment and that was it. Doors was shut and Peng was determine to not give
any more seats up.
Why did Peng gave away a seat to Daviela was unknown to me
but I guess that is favouritism at its best.
We all had a great time chatting and telling stories to one
another in that cabin. Peng a white women from South Africa and her Husband a
diabetic Indian British, Daviela a backpacker trying to go land route to India
though Turkestan, Teodora from Bulgaria which looks like a Model but works in
China making designer Handbags. The Pot could not be more diversely mixed. We
had a great time chatting of every topic one could think off. From Cycling
tours and the consideration of an ebike, to hitchhiking and a guy asking to see
one of Daviala boobs to being a celebrity in China.
Soon it was late and after many repeated refute and rebuke
of people trying to enter the cabin we got the 6 seater cabin to 5 of us
ourselves. Time to sleep as it was getting late and slowly one by one all of us
doze off. I was in a state of semi sleep and semi awake all the time. For a
point I did not trust the look of the guys sitting outside out cabin eyeing us
with envy and spite. I was worried that if we all fall sound asleep something
was bound to get missing so every time the door rattle I was awake but it was
always a false alarm being one of them stretching his leg and kicking the door.
Still every now and then I caught the glimpse of their eyes lurking.
We also got the most ticket checks for one measly night
train. I think it was every hour that the conductor came for a check and at one
point the guys outside enlisted one of the conductor for help in getting them
the free seat. Peng held fast but was still bullied by the conductor and when
he woke up teodora which was in a mean mood she scolded him in Bulgarian and
Daviela slammed the door in the conductor face. …. Shocked the conductor just
left us alone ….
Morning came and we were still in Serbia not even reaching
the border of Bulgaria yet. I notice that the black lurking eyes due to lack of
sleep outside was even more intense now and focus primarily at Milo which was
spread out between two seat and his wife lap … 3 seats … full sleeping
position. You could smell the fire just outside the door and window of our
cabin.
We reached the border of Serbia finally and passport control
came and took our passport for inspection. Mine was taken away as usual for
further inspection as well as Pengs. It came back well and good with the
Officer smiling and instead of saying my name, said Malaysia …. I was Unique
and rare in a way I guess.
New passenger’s hopped on the train which as lot and a lot
of old ladies for some reason. New people means a new tug of war of trying to
get into our cabin for the one empty seat in the whole train carriage. I was
too tired to even bother due to the lack of sleep but Teodora and Peng was
quite energized from some nights sleep. Full vigor they defended the last empty
seat till Teodora got into a heated argument with one of the old lady. Curse
you for your lack of consideration ….
I guess it affected her in a way that when the next old lady
came trying she gave up soon enough and gave her, her own seat instead deciding
to stand in the corridor. Peng would not allow it and she was pull back in to
seat …. So 5 of us plus an old lady.
The lady was so determine that she told Teodora when we
cross the border to Bulgaria, she must be seated. It is a MUST …. That was
partially why she gave up her own thinking it was only for a short while pass
the border. Teodora could not resist and she asked why it was a must for her to
be seated.
I’ll tell you after we cross the border the old lady said …
All this was in Bulgarian language of course and Teodora
translated it for us every time ..When we finally cross the border into
Bulgaria the old lady revealed that she was loaded with cigarettes and the
bunch of them on the train was going to Serbia to buy cigs and transport them
to Bulgaria for reselling.
Smack Forehead ……
Wat a journey this train ride was.
We reached Sofia late as expected at 11 am instead of 8 am.