Day 5 Aug 17 was the day we really worked Kolkata. The
morning started slow as always but eventually it was time to get exploring. For
Ktan it was a bitter sweet type of
journey, since he was excited to show me Kolkata yet terrified of where he has
to go to show me the real Kolkata.
The heart of Kolkata uptown …. Near the old bridge Howrah
and where all the shops clutters together with mass amount of people that for
once, the people rule the roads and not the busses. We stopped by the stock
exchange … once upon a time Kolkata had a stock exchange and it was this
building but due to its numerous and uncontrollable corruption and swindling it
was closed down. I learned that Kolkata is where India’s Old money is …. Old
money as in old power and old wealth …. They may not be the riches anymore but
they are still very influencial.
The Stock exchange was an interesting place for lunch. You
see, the upper or middle class of India that has good stable office jobs in
their nice suits and pants coming down to this one dingy street standing and
eating street food for lunch. I mean nothing wrong with it but it was still a
sight to be seen.
My stomach was put to the test again as Ktan hops from one
food stall to another.
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Chilla |
The first was Chilla …. A sort of pancake but made out of
dhal …. It was delicious and good but I decided not to waste precious space
stuffing it on Chilla and went on to the next dish which was a Dahikachori
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End Product OF Chilla |
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Dahikachori |
Dahikachori…..
a curd base dish but looks like one of their round biscuits being crush then
layered with chilli souce, onion, curd, more chilli sauce and who knows what,
till it was all slimy and sticky ….not a big fan but not too bad for the small
portion I had …
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Street Stalls at the Stock Exchange - Kolkata |
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Chole Tikya |
Next was Chole Tikya …. Chole which means chick peas was
normal to me now although this one was spicy as hell … tikya …. Some sort of
bread
Precious space used up and I was full … lunch was done … but
Ktan and his friend urged that I must at lease try the toast.
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Authentic Indian Toast - TAKE MY MONEY |
Makkan Toast …. Which was the true India style toast … a
toasted bread over charcoal spread with homemade butter … sprinkled with a
generous amount of sugar …. Bites of Unhealthy goodness …
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Makkan Toast |
This was followed by another toast with cheese and I
surrendered, bloated by the little street food for lunch.
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Makkan Toast with Cheese |
Ktan and I left after lunch for the beginning of the hell
sightseeing … his friend bid us good luck and farewell. First stop was the
General Post Office. A large building and with a locals that knows the language
we found the stamp room and I had my heart’s content picking out stamps … India
stamp collection mission completed.
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General Post Office - Kolkata |
Then starts the long 5 hours walk immersing in Kolkata
We walk into this street which was the heart of Kolkata. A
specialized street that sells all the hardware tools you could possibly imagine
…. Stalls after stalls and parts after parts …. If you can’t find what you want
here you won’t find it anywhere … then again if you don’t know what you are
looking for this is the best place to go looking as long as you can bear the
heat ….
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Rows and Rows of Shops in Tiny Streets of Kolkata |
Onwards a right turn and the streets turn into another specialized
street …. Electrics, party items, balloons, jewellery, household and even
medicine street there were all there …. At the medicine street Ktan paused and
showed me a shop selling Condoms …. A specialized shop selling only condoms ….
they had good business too ….
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The shops of Kolkata sells Anything and Everything |
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Porters Hard at Work - Kolkata |
We then walk along the Ganga river … upstream visited the
temple near there but this time smart enough not to go in but appreciate it
from the outside by ignoring all the beggars on our feet. More walks and I was
dizzy …. Seeing porters of people doing hard honest work carrying anything and
everything on their heads … some work alone strong muscle showing and moved
faster than any of the buyers who was zombie walking in the heat. Some in
groups pushing small carts filled with sacks of spices or food …
Porters was the fastest way to move goods in this congested
parts of Kolkata … I admired them with their ruthless movement and willpower to
get the job done ... it was brute labour … Good Honest Work I told Ktan and he
agreed …. Looking at them strengthen my will of not sympathizing with the
beggars of India ..
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Temple Along the Ganga River - Kolkata |
Among all the maze we were finally out and Ktan was finding
this one special place that was called Kumartuli.
Kumartuli was a place where sculptures of Gods and Goddess
were made year round for all the festivals in India … Large and small
sculptures made out of straw and mud clay. The skill are passed from one
generation to another and together they make all the sculptures for the
immersion ritual during certain events throughout the year …. They would
display, parade and finally immerse the clay sculpture into the river …. Or
better yet the Ganga River. These guys makes these sculpture.
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Ktan - The Joy of finding Kumartuli |
As we got closer to the place Ktan became more and more
paranoid in asking for direction …. Finally he told me that just nearby is the
red light district of Kolkata …. Don’t want to wander into it accidentally he
said ….
Kumartuli was amazing …. My most enjoyable trip in Kolkata
and it was not a tourist place …. Tiny shops but filled with rows of sculpture
being made in their raw form and some with paint being put on for the final
touches …. All these works for a festival and it is destroyed in a matter of
weeks … the generation of sculpture has endless work ahead of them.
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Kumartuli - Sculptures of Gods and Goddess |
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Kumartuli - Final Painting Touches on the God |
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Kumartuli - Ganesha in the Making |
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Kumartuli - Carvings from Soft Plastic ... I think |
Wikitravel does not mention this place and it was not even
on the Tripadvisor list … Lonely planet for once won the contest with a small
paragraph of it …. Yet it was not easily found …. Even Ktan a local Kolkata boy
was looked upon like a tourist let alone me ….
Exhausted we took a cab back to the pub near home and head
back once we manage to cool down and wash away our exhaustion.
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