The Remote Area of Isaan – Amnat Charoen & Yasothon

Its been a while since my last entry into this journal but i guess the sights and the travelling was really so mundane or more like time wasting burning that it was not much worth writing about. From Kong Chiam to Amnat Charoen to Yasothon to Phimai to Korat then an overnight stay in Surin before the heart pounding attempt in crossing in to Cambodia for the second time. 

(That crossing was a success ^^) 

From Kong Chiam I made my way up stopping by the Mekong river viewpoint of Samphanbok. Hard to describe in words and my camera cant really capture the essence of the place but it was just once of those weird landscape places that one do not expect to view. I seen the Mekong river from the Golden Triangle all the way in the north and have been tracing it down ever so slowly and the Mighty Mekong never fail to amaze me. 

Samphanbok - Thailand 

Samphanbok - Thailand

To be fair, there was not much to remember .... only when looking back at my photos that i realized for a countryside, the people do tend to spice up things for no reason. From hay sculpture to giant Naruto sized frogs, there were still things to observed while riding through the most un-touristic part of Thailand.

The hotels that I stayed all told me the same thing. No tourist stays here ... only businessman on a visit to do work. 

Wiman Phaya Tan - Yasothon - Thailand

Hay Sculpture - Thailand

Traveled on: Mar 2019

The Two Colour River Kong Chiam

I discovered Khong Chiam purely by accident when I decided to visit the National Museum in Ubon Ratchathani. The museum was a small building giving historical insights to Ubon area and the Pha Taem National park caught my interest where pre historic human settlement was discovered with extensive rock art on cliff facing the Mekong river. 

Kong Chiam - Two Color River

Two Colour River - Kong Chiam

I did not waste time and located it on google maps to see that it was fairly near to the Chong Mek border. Initial plan was to do a run straight to Chong Mek from Ubon since accommodation was almost non existent or way too expensive in Chong Mek for my budget but upon discovering Khong Chiam it was decided I would stop there for a night at least before attempting the border run.

What was suppose to be a one night event visiting this very small village which sets at the merge of the Mun and Mekong river ended up becoming a four night recoup place for me to organized my thoughts.

Bluey rejection of entry to Laos made me came back to Khong Chiam for the second night and somehow every morning I keep extending another night. The guesthouse owner was extremely please every morning as I walked up to the reception sleepily and said one more night please, paying the 300 baht for a room a night.

Its a weird place for me even for doing nothing much of significant.

Khong Chiam felt like a little hidden gem that the locals do daytrip or overnight trip from Ubon Ratchathani to see the two color river which comes from the Mun and Mekong river merging but what I saw was one beautiful same color two river. Apparently it was the wrong season to see it but still this quint little village had a serenity I could not really describe. 

A peaceful little place - Kong Chiam

The whole place was walkable from one end to another in 10 minutes with main trade seemingly niche and cozy guesthouse lining up at every corner yet walking around day or night this place was almost deserted of people. There must be a season for visitors I think but seriously I doubt it could be filled up even on a busy weekend.

Although such a small village, this place had a lot of quirky charms to lull in tourist. Known as the most eastern town in Thailand or with the quote, The first to see the sunrise in Thailand. By chance, one of the days of my stay was a Saturday morning where a local market or Lao market as they call it since the people from both Thai and Lao side set up stalls and shops in Khong Chiam to sell their goods. 

The most Eastern Part of Thailand - First to see the sunrise of Thailand - Kong Chiam

Saturday Market at Kong Chiam

On the hill behind Khong Chiam lies Wat Tham Khuha Sawan with stairs leading up the hill. At first I did not bother with the temple since temple in Thailand were like mushrooms, everywhere and beautiful but after a while all looked the same. I had too much time in Khong Chiam thats for sure so a visit to the temple surprised me with a freaking huge Giant Gong that make no sense or place being there. 

ASEAN Friendship Gong - Kong Chiam

Naturally I did a daytrip to Pha Taem National Park only to find out that the entry for foreigner was 400 baht compared to locals which was 40 baht. I don't feel angry nor do I really bother about such things really since most times in Thailand when the park ranger accidentally charge me the local price, I still tell them I am farang and set the right amount down. The question was more if I was willing to pay that amount of money for the anticipation of what there was to see.

I decided against, and followed the local recommendation to go around down towards a smaller village along the Mekong river. The road run parallels with the national park and from there I could see the cliff from a distance for free but not close enough to make out the rock arts from pre historic times. 

Entrance to Pha Taem National Park

Viewing Pha Taem National Park Cliff from afar 

Other days in Khong Chiam was like a dream just somehow doing nothing but passing the time way too fast that I could imagine. One day should be enough to sort out my next plan of the journey but somehow this place managed to suck my thinking cap for four nights.

The guesthouse owner once she knew I was Malaysian and could speak Chinese even called out her single daughter to have conversations with me which opens up a more wider understanding of this charming little town.

Still I knew the magic word when I heard it.

Stay here for a month .... relax ....

The magic word ... STAY ... it was time to leave Khong Chiam tomorrow

Traveled on: Mar 2019 

Rejected Entry at Chong Mek-Vang Tao Border

My first entry into Laos with Bluey was so easy that I took Laos for granted thinking that at any point in time I could skirt into Laos through any one of the numerous border with Thailand and explore to my hearts content.

The first sign of trouble was in Mukdahan where I impulsively decided to cross the border from Thailand to Laos – Savannahket but with a quick rejection from the Thai side refusing to even let me out of Thailand. 

Thailand - Chong Mek Border 

Laos - Vang Tao Border 

Immigration would not stamp me out and custom will not allow Bluey onto the friendship bridge hence I was turn away before I even had any attempt at the Lao side. According to the Thai immigration officer which I was pleading my case, this border apparently do not allow motorbikes to be ride across the friendship bridge. The only way was for me across the border was to get a good but a little greedy local Samaritan to ferry Bluey by loading the bike up a pick up truck.

The Thai side immigration estimates that a good tip of 1500 baht would be able to attract some good local Samaritan but even with the immigration officer asking on my behalf, the few people with pick up crossing the border turn down the offer almost immediately. I would not have mind paying the money but there was still no guarantee that the Lao side will allow me in with Bluey even with this arrangement.

I asked which border can I used instead of Mukdahan to cross over to Laos with Bluey and the immigration officer was kind enough to make some calls to all the neighboring border. Apparently all the friendship bridge across the Mekong river was touchy and probably end up with a rejection and she suggested the Chong Mek -Vang Tao border with a confirm yes.

A few weeks later I arrived at Chong Mek border.

The Thai side immigration asked me one question which set up a small red flag in my head.

Your motorbike can enter Laos ??

Thinking fast I said yes and proceeded to show him the entry form (always make a copy of the temporary import permit) I made with Bluey a few month back through Chiang Khan – Huay Xai border and he was convince enough to process me and Bluey out of Thailand.

At the Laos side Vang Tao, immigration was pretty simple with only 100 baht fee for passport processing which I paid and then it was customs. I could see the locals processing the TIP form in front of me (all cars from Thailand) but when it was my turn somehow communication was not easy. They made we wait while looking for someone who could speak English and the words that came from her drained all the blood from my face.

Motorbike from Malaysia going to Laos ?

Yes

Alone ?

Yes

We cannot issue permit for single motorbike going into Laos. This border only issue permit for convoy of minimum three bikes.

I pled, beg, pestered but the customs were not interested and I was left standing outside and ignored. The young girl who could speak English suggested that I go to the insurance agency to ask if he could help arrange some manner for me to enter Laos with Bluey.

Thinking I had hope, I left the customs counter to locate the insurance agency but the moment I mention motorbike in my word, the fat old guy gave me the palm and said NO. I was shown the door and ignored completely. Back to customs to plea my case and the girl who could speak English has vanish. My face was known now and trying to beg for the TIP in English came back with continuous strings of explanations in Lao which I had no clue what they were saying other than the end of the sentence which they said NO.

So close, just one more step and I would be like a little boy enjoying candy while I explore the southren part of Laos and the famous four thousand islands.

Back to Laos immigration and I got a stamp out on the same day and turned back to re-enter Thailand.

What do I do now ...

Traveled on: Mar 2019

Buriram – Destination of Speed

From Khon Kean to Maha Sarakham to Buriram ... have to say there was not much that will remain in my memory for this leg since there was not much things to see nor do. After a while, one city looks like another city especially since I had not left the region, hence big contrast was hard to distinguish.

Buriram however was where I started to see some contrast and miniature uniqueness when one stop and observed a little. For one ... I notice a lot of the cars & motorbike had Buriram United stickers on them.

I had time to relax but somehow even with the whole month in Isaan region I have been on the run and barely have much to remember of the journey. Its weird but I guess that’s Thailand somehow in a way. Always moving. Its very different from Laos where there was not much to see in between travel. I’ll be sitting in one place somewhere in Laos for a week and somehow time flies even though there is no cinema nor any other kind of entertainment.

Khaokradong Volcano Forest Park – Buriram

Apart of Buriram being a bustling town with lots of food and shops to resupply anything I could think of, there was some sight to have a look around nearby the city. One of which is Khaokradong Volcano Forest Park. As grand as the name sound, it basically is an old mount that use to be a volcano. Lovely park to pass time and at the top of the mount there is a big Buddha overlooking Buriram. Isaan sure is flat ... 

Khaokradong Volcano Forest Park - Buriram

View of Buriram from Khaokradong Volcano Forest Park

Big Buddha at the Peak of Khaokradong Volcano Forest Park - Buriram

Chang International Circuit – Destination of Speed

Most tourism started in Buriram due to the motorsports event kicking off every year in the state. The Thailand Motorcycle Grand Prix. When not racing or training, locals can take their ride in there for a spin. 

Chang International Circuit - Buriram

Prasat Mueang Tam & Phanom Rung Historical Park

About an hour ride from Buriram City is where an ancient Khmer style temple ruin lies preserved as a tourist and historical attraction. I have started to develop immunity hence after seeing so many of these type of temple ruins, it has become a routine in a way, heading there and walking around silently absorbing the beauty but never lingering longer than an hour before I move on to the next place. 

Prasat Muaeng Tam - Buriram

Phanom Rung Historical park

Phanom Rung Historical Park 

Traveled on: Feb 2019

The Dinasour of Kalasin

Sirindhorn Museum - Kalasin 

From Roi Et, the next Isaan province was Kalasin which was near enough about 50km hence I had plenty of time to get there during the day. I took a detour based on local recommendation and headed south about 20km from Roi Et to visit a mini temple that resembles the Borobudur style.

Wat Pa Kung was the name of the place and after the quiet detour I went for a slow ride to Kalasin while absorbing the countryside scenery with Bluey. 

Wat Pa Kung Temple at Roi Et

Reaching Kalasin, this place was even more depressed and if there was any place in Thailand that looked poor to me, this was it. The center was like the eighties street back in Malaysia in small towns where people just pass time watching the dust settles on the road. Talking a walk around downtown and then a slow ride around the outer skirt of Kalasin confirmed to me that this town had very little to offer in terms of tourism

The main point of Kalasin was to visit the Sirinthorn Museum which was the largest and most comprehensive dinosaur museum in Thailand but that museum is 30km away from Kalasin main town, out in the middle of nowhere.

I stayed in Kalasin for one night and the next day packed my stuff and headed to the museum only to be caught unaware by the museum closure since it was a Monday. A quick decision and since I did not want to stay in Kalasin another night which was quite a depressing town, I rode to Khon Kean 100km away. 

Isanosaurus - The Isaan Dinasour

Species of Dinosaur found in Isaan - Isanosourus Attavipatchi

Sirindhorn Museum - Kalasin 

Thinking back, I should have just stayed one more night in Kalasin then visit the museum. I ended up making a daytrip back to Kalasin just to visit the Dinasour Museum the very next day. So that's Kalasin – Khon Kean – Kalasin – Khon Kean .... 300 km ... As tired as I was, I figured it was worth it for it is quite a scenic ride around the Lam Pao Lake.

Around Kalasin state however was a very contrast different to the main town. There was the man made lake of Lam Pao which was beautiful with floating huts restaurant lining up the banks. I did the full circle even visiting the Dam but the best part was Thepsuda Bridge crossing the lake. 

Lam Pao Dam

Lam Pao Lake & Thepsuda Bridge 

Lam Pao Lake

Sirinthorn Museum was well worth the visit. The only country in South East Asia that has discovered dinosaur fossils is in Isaan Thailand. That was a shocker for me as I had always thought the dinosaurs was native to big continent lands. The amount of fossil in the museum was also another surprise. They had a large collection and not just from Thailand, but from all around the world donated by other museum and countries.

One of the interesting thing of Sirinthorn Museum was is that the museum is so out of the way from any town because it was built exactly where the dinosaur fossils were found. Tracking up the back path a little from the main museum building, one can see the excavation site and fossil that is still semi burred in the natural earth. 

Archeological Research Room at Sirindhorn Museum

Excavation site of Dinosaur Fossil at Kalasin 

Traveled on: Feb 2019

Onwards to Roi Et

With the failure of crossing over to Laos from Mukdahan it was just a matter of random choice now on where to head to. I choose Roi Et and casually started riding. Along the way to Roi Et, I was stopped numerous time by so many police checks. This time they all wanted to see papers instead of being lazy and waving me onwards once they knew I was Malaysian. I figured it was partially due to being so close to the Laos border. 

Riding from Mukdahan to Roi Et

One of the check point had this cheeky elderly police that keep talking to me in Thai which I had no clue what so ever since he was stringing sentences non stop.

The few words I manage to catch and understand, I answered

I am from Malaysia
I am going to Roi Et
I am touring Thailand on motorbike.

When I got the signal to carry on, the guy continue on with talks which I could not understand but I decided to tell him “Thailand Aroi” - which I think translate as ( Thailand is good )

He had a big grin on his face and started saying Aroi, Aroi and made movement with his hips that suggested something with his hand cupped on his balls while he continued repeating what I said to him ... Thailand Aroi ... a big grin and a wink he gave me. I gave him a grin underneath my covered bandana and a salute before speeding off.

Sri Chai Mongkol Grand Pagoda
Pha Nam Yoi, Nong Phok District, Roi Et 45210, Thailand 

Sri Chai Mongkul Grand Pagoda - Isaan 

Only one detour stop between Mukdahan to Roi Et and that was at this huge temple which had amazing review on google map. Out of curiosity and also since I had so much time to space, I decided to check it out and ended up spending a good hour and more exploring the temple grounds 

Garden of Sri Chai Mongkul Grand Pagoda - Isaan

The temple pagoda and garden is enormously massive with a beautiful garden and its interior is laces with detailed artwork and going up all the way to the highest level (6th floor), I notice the special enclave that is used for keeping the scared relics of Buddha. Not much translation for foreign tourist and the visitors seams to be purely locals. 

At Roi Et it was one of those city that I immediately thought ... yea ... this place I could retire. Beautiful central garden and a bustling daily city night market. Nothing much to see but just the right balance of city and country. 

Roi-Et Night Market 

Roi-Et Night Market

Dinner at Roi Et Night Market

Traveled on : Feb 2019

Phra That Phanom Woramahawihan Temple and a Movie at Mukdahan

As I made my way down from Nakhon Phanom to Mukdahan on Valentine day (14 Feb 2019) I had to stop by at the most famous temple along the Mekong river on the Thailand side which was Wat Phra Trat Phanom Woramahawihan Temple which was beautiful and huge with lots of pilgrims. 

Phra That Phanom Pagoda 

I don't know if it was the timing or if it was always like this all year round but around the temple for the few streets adjacent to, it was fully block up with markets selling stuff of all kinds and it felt like a big city bazaar than anything else. 

The Bazaar around Phra That Panom. Me somehow manage to enter the pedestrian bazaar with Bluey 

All the Thai locals were there visiting by large number of tourist bus, caravans, convoys that it was a sight to see where the real Thailand is instead of the usual falang infested places. My cousin did told me not to miss this place while I was touring Isaan for it was the most scared monument and temple of the region. I manage to find the reason, the pagoda contained the chest relics of Buddha. 

Excerpt from Phra That Phanom Woramahawihan Temple Signboard

Onward to Mukdahan for Valentine day and I was alone in a very nice motel for 400 baht a night. I went to see the long anticipated valentine movie of Thailand called Friend-zone. I had been seeing the advert everywhere in Thailand for a while now so it was a major film hype of the month. 

Thai Comedy Movie  Friendzone 2019

I am starting to really enjoy Thai movies .... since they have subtitles in English. It's like a new movie world theme opened up, instead of the usual western blockbusters. Thai comedy especially is a totally tragic story^^ . 

Traveled on : Feb 2019

Life by the Mekong River in Nahkon Phanom

On the way from Sakhon Nahkhon to Nahkon Phanom, there was this signboard along the road that said, Mekong Underwater world. Curious and having plenty of time to space since this was a short ride for the day of only 2 hours, I decided to take a detour. These days the detours are all that makes the trips worthwhile anyway. 

Detour by the Signboard - To Mekong Underwater World - Nahkon Phanom 

The Mekong Giant Catfish - Underwater World Nahkon Phanom 

Mekong Underwater world was a big aquarium showcasing the marine ecology in the Mekong River. For a small place it was extremely insightful understanding how important the Mekong River is to biodiversity. I was there during a primary school visit so there was lots of screaming children running around and I guess that was the kind of place it was built for, education.

Onward to Nakhon Phanom and it was a lovely surprise to what I was expecting. My image of Nakhon Phanom from the web was that it is a sleepy town, nothing worth stopping more than one night but to be honest, I was loving the place so much. 

Temples along the Mekong River - Nahkon Phanom 

Sleepy town it was, however with a lovely boardwalk by the Mekong river filled with old wooden stilts houses which mostly turned into hipster "Mookata" watering hole at night. They also have a quint historic clock-tower that marks the center of Nakhon Phanom and a row of beautifully ornate temples lining up side by side facing the Mekong river which just shines beautifully on a sunset. 

Nahkon Phanom - Mekong River Boardwalk 

Old Stilts Houses turn Niche Eatery and Drinking Places by the Mekong River - Nahkon Phanom

Mookata by the Mekong River - Nahkon Phanom

Mookata by the Mekong River - Nahkon Phanom 

To be frank I briefly considered doing nothing for a few weeks here in Nahkhon Phanom. It had that kind of charm for a sleepy old town. I even made a Pokemon Go Friend while I was battling a gym by the Naga Statue. The guy just walked up to me with his phone pointing and spoke to me in Thai so happily (I figured there was not much Pokemon Go players around). My limited Thai was still fun conversing with a local that had nothing to do about travel. To this day he is still my silent friend in Pokemon Go sending each other gift every other time. 

Naga Monument at Nahkon Phanom 

There was one thing to do in Nahkon Phanom that is quite interesting for the history buff. Nearby lies the actual house of residence of President Ho Chi Minh (Vietnam). Very humbling and also a stark contrast of how he is portrayed in Vietnam. To get there, its about a short ride 15 minutes from downtown to Ban Nachok with barely much sign markers. Mark on GPS and slowly follow. Direction and guide are hard to come by and one may go to the wrong Ho Chi Minh museum nearby. 

Ho Chi Minh Residence in Nahkon Phanom Thailand 

Ho Chi Minh Residence in Nahkon Phanom Thailand 

Ho Chi Minh Working Table 

Traveled on : Feb 2019