Re-Route to Feng Huang Ancient City

Feng Huang was a new discovery for me halfway through the China leg somewhere in Yichang. I cant really remember how I found out of Feng Huang but it was somewhere along the line of wechat channel or instragram reel or maybe even a pop up advert. 

Once I had a slight info about Feng Huang, more research uncovered that it was actually a popular tourist destination that is paired with Zhangjiajie.

Fenghuang Phoenix Ancient City - China

Irony really, for when I was plotting route few months back in Malaysia, after Zhangjiajie was always a black hole not really sure how to proceed and just picking the next city on the map. The things you discover by accident while travelling trully brings new excitement. 

So from Zhangjiejie we took the train to Fenghuang and at the exit was ambush by a pretty girl wearing a traditional dress (I would later know it of the Miao ethnicity) trying to sell us train tickets or metro tickets to the city center itself.

Mini Maglev Train in Fenghuang

It turns out to be another Meglev train built entirely to boost tourism for Fenghuang Ancient City. This meglev however was slow type but still amazing that the cumbersome technology was used in such manner. 

Fenghuang itself attracted many tourist from all around China as it is not only a scenic city by the river with many haphazard old building architecture but also it was part of the minority group Miao with its charming traditional costumes and culture.

Fenghuang Pheonix Ancient City - China

Fenghuang Pheonix Ancient City - China

Fenghuang Pheonix Ancient City - China

Fenghuang Pheonix Ancient City - China

Locals Playing Cards - Fenghuang

The city was beautiful but touristy. In a way the initial impression of FengHuang was just another touristy ancient city in China. One could never tell which is a preserved ancient city and which is rebuilt or worst, which is entirely fabricated just for tourism. 

The tourist business easily overshadow the locals and one might easily mistaken a tourist shop from an authentic Miao decendent living in the heart of the city.

Locals selling handicraft in Fenghuang

Fenghuang Nightly Lightup 

Chance encounter was with an old man whom sold paintings of white and blue made on cloth with candle wax and was smacked right in the middie of the tourist street wedged between tourist trinket.

That shop was actually his house which he had grew up in and he was already 80 years old. It’s one of those encounter with genuine shopkeepers and he showed us all his paintings as Zaine enquired one by one being mesmeriezed by his work.

I notice that the Old man had acolates and awards from international council of HK for being an establish artist and the more we interacted, he told his stories showing us picture of famous people who had bought his painting over the decades. His painting was not cheap however, the smallest one cost RMB 2800 which was all price labeled so not anyhow sput out of a whim.

Zaine & His Picture

Most of the captivating ones starts above RMB6000 and there was no pressure in selling his work either. He was just a happy Old man enjoying that we were appreciating his painting. 

Zaine got intrigued by one of the painting and I wonder if he would part with huge sum of money to buy it. The rest of the day kept him in lalaland dreaming of the painting and I was careful not to input any swaying decision into the open coversation.

The next day he decided to visit the art shop again and I advised him that it would be best if he goes alone for his negotiation with the old man. 

They manage reach an agreement for the artwork which was still quite a lot in my opinion but somethings are priceless in a way and who am I to judge what Art is worth anyway to another.

Fenghuang was dearie short visit with only one night stopover and in a way I felt a bit of regret not having the time to really peel away the tourist layer facade to see the unique heritage underneath. 

Narrow Corridors along Fenghuang Ancient City Walls 

Locals Intense Game of Chess - Fenghuang

Just walking around the ancient city itself had so many interesting hint of culture. Still it also felt that I needed some luck and more chance encounters with locals to really immerse into it. Some experience cant be force and must be invited.

Traveled on: Dec 2024

Exploring Zhangjiajie National Park

How do I even begin to descibe this place. For those that know about Zhangjiajie, this place is magical but for those that had never heard about it well I find it supprising, for a real natural wonder its weird how low key it is to the world. Think of the seven Natural Wonders of the world and this should be on the list but somehow its missing.

Zhangjiajie National Park

Setting up base at Wulingyuan town for a few nights me and Zaine proceed to explore Zhangjiajie National Park. Zaine had already gone in once yesterday but it would be my first today. Cost to go in was RMB 225 but this allow visitors to go in for a total of 4 days consequtive and free access to the numerous internal park shuttle bus systems.

Day one in and Zaine lead the way avoiding cable cars systems and the Bailong elevator which cause additional fee of RMB 70 per way. In total there was 3 cable car system and one elevator plus one special shuttle ride. 

Zhangjiajie Low Zone 

The Aim is to Hike up to the top - High Zone of Zhangjiajie 

The hike up Zhangjiajie

If one were to do all of em in every way, that would cost like 70x5x2 about 640 extra making the total excursion in ZZJ a whooping RMB 925 visit. This does not even include all the nearby attraction in Zhangjiajie surrounding vicinity such as Tianmen Mountain or the Glass Bridge Grand Canyon. 

Take note the prices above keep changing depending on seasons.

So we tried to save some money as poor backpackers naturally. There was numerous hiking trails which one could hike up and down to get to the same location that the cable car and elevator goes but each hike up and down would take at least 2.5 hours. Hike elevation difference was about 1000m.

Zhangjiajie National Park was more or less divided to the high zone and the low zone and the shuttle bus services only goes high or low and no other way. Entering the national park, one would be at the low zone and the only way to get to the high zone was either elevator, cable car or hike. Hike being the free one, we did it first. Then after walking around the small scenic area, our time was out and it was time to go down again the same path.

Zhangjiajie - Highzone 

Zhangjiajie - Highzone

Zhangjiajie - Highzone

Zhangjiajie - Highzone

Climbing up was labourous and tiring but going down was hurting the knees for me. By the time we reach down it was dark out and we were the last one out of the park. The next day I woke up with painful knees. Going up or down stairs I was really slow as a snail. 

Still I thought that it would pass and we went into the park again. Every day the plan was to wake up early to go into the park but the cold was not inviting and bed was so much better so instead about half the time spend in the park was usually from Noon to sundown.

Cable Car Ride Inside Zhangjiajie National Park

Hiking to One Step to the Sky

One Step To the Sky - Zhangjiajie

Day two in the park and I convince Zaine to do at least 1 cable car up coz my legs were fucked and no way I could do a climb up to the highzone again. The idea was go up easy and come down easy. I was so, so wrong. 

We hit this small trail at the highzone which lead us to one of the most amazing view in ZZJ park, One Step to the Sky was the name of the viewing place. One had to hike up and down a little trail from the high zone to reach it and that was where I picked up a walking stick for my legs were really getting worst and worst.

Somehow made it to One Step to the Sky but I was nowhere able to take stairs now. Going down was sideways bracing with walking stick and barristers wherever they are. Imagine a baby learning how to go down stairs the first time. I was like that baby but in pain. 

View at One Step to The Sky - Zhangjiajie 

Rest Point - One Step To the Sky - Zhangjiajie

View at One Step to The Sky - Zhangjiajie 

View at One Step To The Sky - Zhangjiajie

I surrended to Zhangjiajie National Park and spilit up from Zaine. He would go on for the walk down while I take the shuttle bus to Bailong elevator, paying money to take the elevator down and shuttle out of the park.

Day three in Wulingyuan was rest day, a day to somehow recover back the damaged legs so we could leave for Fenghuang Ancient City the next day. There was still so many parts of the Park that I had not ventured and thinking back yet I was still happy enaugh with the area we saw.

Bailong Elevator at Zhangjiajie

View from Lowzone - Zhangjiajie 

In a way I appreciate the elevator and cable car system more now, for each trail and systems was designed to actually show different part of the park and does not overlap. If one were to only hike, they would missed out the sections where cable car goes but if one were to go only by cable car, they would also missed the hike’s scenery.

Traveled on: November 2023

Towards Zhangjiajie My Main Goal of Backpacking China this round

It was the first slow train ride in China from Yichang to Zhangjiajie. Previously I only had experience the city metro system and long distance bullet train so the old slow train network was a new experience for me in China. Nice and quiet I would say with a bit of a rustic feel but the slow train was still going quite fast about 120km/hr just that they had more stops along the way compared to the bullet train.

Local Train has Way more people 

K Series Train in China (aka cheap + slow train but still quite fast)

I arrived late evening on the 1st night in Zhangjiajie town and decided to skip one of the main attraction which was the Tienmenshan Mountain Scenic Area once I found out the ticket to go up was a whooping RMB 275 for a day trip. 

At the hostel I met an Zaine an American who was also backpacking China and after a short conversation he changed his plan and checked out the next morning to tag along with me heading to Wulingyuan which was the entrance to Zhangjiajie National Park.

Arriving at Zhangjiajie Train Station

Zhangjiajie Train Station

Travel of Swan Inn Hostel in Wulingyuan was everything a backpacker could ask for. Clean dorm, quiet place, full facilities of washer and dryer and cosy common area where backpackers could chill and exchange info. 

It was also nice that it was just walking distance to the Park entrance and since Zhangjiajie Park was so famous and huge, lots of us was exchange many info on how to best explore the park.

Wulingyuan Gate Entrance to Zhangjiajie National Park

Long story short, we got sucked into the hostel for three full nights despite the higher end price of the hostel at RMB 60 per night. While trying to bargain down the price, the cute hostel receptionist Ms. Mutou told us we could get a private room for the same price. Zaine and I would pair up for a long time travelling together for a while till Guangzhou which was really unexpected for me.

Local Food in Wulingyuan

Wulingyuan

Local Food at Wulingyuan

Throughout my backpacking journey, this was the first time I had companion for a long duration. Usually it was the passing city or maybe the next stop as well but very rare the tag along would last multiple cities. First time I was able to experience the perks of sharing private room as well espescially places that did not have a dorm room.

All settled in, It was time to see the famous Zhangjiajie ...

Traveled on: Nov 2023

Visiting the Three Gorges Dam - Yichang

Avoiding all kind of tourist trap and tour guides for Three Gorges Dam, I tickle out the most economical way to see the Dam. Local bus from downtown Yichang too me to a small private / semi-goverment linked bus stop where local tourist could get a bus transfer No.8 or No. 216 which cost RMB 10 one way to the Three Gorges Dam scenic area.

Local Bus Transfer Station for No.216

Bus 216 From Yichang to Three Gorges Dam

The bus takes me all the way to the starting point of the Three Gorges Dam scenic tourist area a good 30+ km. Three Gorges Dam scenic area was free to all however, to get there a shuttle bus is required and driving own vehicle don’t seam to cut it either since it has to go through a few military check point. Hence the shuttle bus ticket price of RMB 35 seams to be the un-disguised entrance fee to see the Three Gorges Dam.

Tourist Center of Three Gorges Dam

Overview Tourist Map of Three Gorges Dam

First Shuttle Stop View Point 

The govement approved tourist center tried to sell me a package of shuttle bus to see the Dam then a cruise boat back to Yichang. The cruise boat cost around RMB 180 so I gave it a hard pass and opt for the cheapest possible way to visit Three George Dam. 

The shuttle bus from scenic point to scenic point for RMB 35. All in all it cost me RMB10 to the Starting Point, RMB 35 for shuttle bus, RMB 10 to get back to Yichang. A good 4 hours round journey tour which I peg it as a great cheap sightseeing day.

Shiplock Gateway for Three Gorges Dam

Marker Stone for Three Gorges Dam Viewpoint 

Three Gorges Dam. Its not ave aspiring beautiful but the engineering feat of the project does captivate me being in the same industry. I guess this place is not so popular as other scenic area as it really depend on specific interest.

Three Gorges Dam - China 

Three Gorges Dam - China 

School Excursion to the Three Gorges Dam - China 

After visiting the Dam, I returned to Yichang and rounded back on the public bus No. 10 to get to another scenic spot called Sanyoudong but end up not entering as there was an entrance ticket of RMB 65. The bus there was only RMB 2 so still worth the small detour to see some nice scenery outside the ticket booth.

Sanyoudong Scenic Entrance

The View Outside Sanyoudong Scenic Area 

Traveled On: Nov 2023

Recharge in Yichang

From Wuhan I took the train to Yichang. Not much excitement there as I more or less figured out how to work the train system in China with AMAP as a guide. Reached Yichang and activated Alipay Buscard for Yichang which makes life so much simpler not needing to find spare change. Yichang does not have a metro system as of 2023 so bus were the main mode of transport. RMB 2 for each ride be it long or short.

Window View from Train Journey to Yichang

I finally upgraded from hostel to full fledge Hotel room. Sleeping on 1 inch bed on hard wood for a week has made me sucumb to a little luxury to give me back my sanity. Proper bed, Queen size bed in fact for two person of RMB 89 per night is actually pretty good. I keep thinking the price I pay which is for 1 person but if I had a partner this would be a no brainer coz hostel cost nearly RMB 40 per person and two person would make up RMB 80.

Hotel in Yichang

Great toilet too, not the squat type but western bowl with clean hot shower area. I could only take a few days of grimy toilet for shower and eventually Yichang was to satisfy a few things at the same time. Good Toilet, soft bed and of course private space to get laundry done.

Laundry is by far the most hardest thing for a backpacker in China in my opinion. There are no coin laundry and normal laundry needs to wait a day to collect. Some big cities with international standard hostel (those that have proper bed and not the 1 inch mattress) would have a washing machine for use but dryers are quite a rare species to find. I found one in Suzhou and took the chance to wash everything although I still had a few days before it was due.

The rule was, whenever there is a chance to do quick laundry, its best to get it done. So here I am in Yichang in a private room with private bathroom. Everything into the sink for a hand wash immediatly after check in to give it as much time as possible to dry. Hence Yichang was a 2 night affair to allow laundry to dry.

Walking Around Yichang 

Walking Around Yichang

Although a gateway to the Three Gorges Dam, Yichang was relatively untouch by mass tourism. Most travellers would go through the Yangtze river cruise to see the Dam and surounding and barely giving Yichang a stop to explore. 

Budget backpacker like me which did not have the funds for a expensive cruise might end up in Yichang, but the lack of international tourist means almost no hostels in play and no touristic amenities. Yichang is a rare unpolished gem I would say, being so close to a world class engineering marvel.

Traveled on: Nov 2023