Tuesday 29 December 2020

The Two Colour River Kong Chiam

I discovered Khong Chiam purely by accident when I decided to visit the National Museum in Ubon Ratchathani. The museum was a small building giving historical insights to Ubon area and the Pha Taem National park caught my interest where pre historic human settlement was discovered with extensive rock art on cliff facing the Mekong river. 

Kong Chiam - Two Color River

Two Colour River - Kong Chiam

I did not waste time and located it on google maps to see that it was fairly near to the Chong Mek border. Initial plan was to do a run straight to Chong Mek from Ubon since accommodation was almost non existent or way too expensive in Chong Mek for my budget but upon discovering Khong Chiam it was decided I would stop there for a night at least before attempting the border run.

What was suppose to be a one night event visiting this very small village which sets at the merge of the Mun and Mekong river ended up becoming a four night recoup place for me to organized my thoughts.

Bluey rejection of entry to Laos made me came back to Khong Chiam for the second night and somehow every morning I keep extending another night. The guesthouse owner was extremely please every morning as I walked up to the reception sleepily and said one more night please, paying the 300 baht for a room a night.

Its a weird place for me even for doing nothing much of significant.

Khong Chiam felt like a little hidden gem that the locals do daytrip or overnight trip from Ubon Ratchathani to see the two color river which comes from the Mun and Mekong river merging but what I saw was one beautiful same color two river. Apparently it was the wrong season to see it but still this quint little village had a serenity I could not really describe. 

A peaceful little place - Kong Chiam

The whole place was walkable from one end to another in 10 minutes with main trade seemingly niche and cozy guesthouse lining up at every corner yet walking around day or night this place was almost deserted of people. There must be a season for visitors I think but seriously I doubt it could be filled up even on a busy weekend.

Although such a small village, this place had a lot of quirky charms to lull in tourist. Known as the most eastern town in Thailand or with the quote, The first to see the sunrise in Thailand. By chance, one of the days of my stay was a Saturday morning where a local market or Lao market as they call it since the people from both Thai and Lao side set up stalls and shops in Khong Chiam to sell their goods. 

The most Eastern Part of Thailand - First to see the sunrise of Thailand - Kong Chiam

Saturday Market at Kong Chiam

On the hill behind Khong Chiam lies Wat Tham Khuha Sawan with stairs leading up the hill. At first I did not bother with the temple since temple in Thailand were like mushrooms, everywhere and beautiful but after a while all looked the same. I had too much time in Khong Chiam thats for sure so a visit to the temple surprised me with a freaking huge Giant Gong that make no sense or place being there. 

ASEAN Friendship Gong - Kong Chiam

Naturally I did a daytrip to Pha Taem National Park only to find out that the entry for foreigner was 400 baht compared to locals which was 40 baht. I don't feel angry nor do I really bother about such things really since most times in Thailand when the park ranger accidentally charge me the local price, I still tell them I am farang and set the right amount down. The question was more if I was willing to pay that amount of money for the anticipation of what there was to see.

I decided against, and followed the local recommendation to go around down towards a smaller village along the Mekong river. The road run parallels with the national park and from there I could see the cliff from a distance for free but not close enough to make out the rock arts from pre historic times. 

Entrance to Pha Taem National Park

Viewing Pha Taem National Park Cliff from afar 


Other days in Khong Chiam was like a dream just somehow doing nothing but passing the time way too fast that I could imagine. One day should be enough to sort out my next plan of the journey but somehow this place managed to suck my thinking cap for four nights.

The guesthouse owner once she knew I was Malaysian and could speak Chinese even called out her single daughter to have conversations with me which opens up a more wider understanding of this charming little town.

Still I knew the magic word when I heard it.

Stay here for a month .... relax ....

The magic word ... STAY ... it was time to leave Khong Chiam tomorrow


Traveled on: Mar 2019 

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