Doi Angkang. I knew it was going to be a great day setting out riding on new years eve aiming for Doi Angkang. The idea was to stay the night up in the mountains, the third tallest peak in Thailand and camp among the clouds even if I have to somehow endure the shivering cold in a tent, it was something I was determined to do. The idea of waking up on new years day in the mountain was too good to pass on but alas plans don't always work out as one dreams.
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| The Beginning of what I thought would be an easy ride for the day ... |
The ride was suppose to be easy. Only 86 km from Chinag Dao and the first 50km of the road was pretty easy, flat and serene passing by little huts shelter and farm land. After the turn at Arunothai village which somehow, I could not find a place to stop for lunch hence riding on and the roads begin to go through forestry zig zagging steep uphill and downhill. The climb up was difficult but still within good control.
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| Not Much Room to Stop for a Break Riding up Doi Angkang |
Bluey went up slowly but surely and with every steep climb I was down to first gear with full control knowing that Bluey will make it ok. I guess the initial confident makes me a little blind onward into the journey. Downhill was difficult too, stressing the brakes and with little to no side-path for a safe stop, I carried on.
I stop for lunch at the first little village I saw once I was out of the mountain pass. I thought the worst was over. If the whole stretch was going to be like the one I just navigated, it wont be so bad. I only left 20km anyway to my destination of Doi Angkang camping grounds and at 1pm with plenty of time to spare I was not at all concern.
After lunch I continue on tackling on some seriously beautiful and challenging roads. Roads were narrow and roads were not in the best conditions with cracks and holes in them. Still it was better than gravel or dirt road. It was more like just an old road that had not seen any care for a while other than the vehicles running it.
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| Small Town along the Mountain Road to Doi Angkang |
I saw the super steep and super long climb from far away. In my mind I knew this was going to be hard. If I could keep the movement at first gear, I thought no matter how slow Bluey goes, so long as I keep calm and control the first gear that I would eventually reach the top of this steep obstacle.
I thought wrong, and midway through the climb Bluey could go no further even at first gear. I executed the perfect stop, full brakes and clutch in at first gear. I was stationary in the middle of the climb with my left leg down for balance. It was so steep that there was no way for me to do anything other than to freeze there.
Trying to release the back brakes cause a slight movement backwards. Trying to move forward with the loudest scream on first gear cause an immediate choke the moment the clutch slightly kicks in. I could not do anything and the more I tried the more I lost control. With my right leg securely on the back brakes since front brake was insufficient to hold the bike in place, I had to try to move it upwards or sideways to make a u-turn back downhill.
Throttle-engage clutch and try to move, and for a moment I was moving slower than a baby crawl but Bluey was screaming like he was set on fire. One slight finesse mistake on the clutch and the engine went dead, choked to death.
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| HELP HELP >>>> BLUEY's Down !!! |
Now I was on a slope with trucks and bikes passing me but I was sitting duck. Trying to restart Bluey I lost balance and tilted the bike to the right side and a fall was inevitable. Left my bike laying there while I wonder how am I going to go to Doi Angkang. Backtracking the way I came seams like a bad idea since I now remembered the numerous steeper downhill I had to go through to even get this far.
Standard procedure kicks in and I offloaded Bluey taking out the luggage and the cargo box and waited for some kind soul to help me pick up the bike. Standing there it felt unnatural like you had to lean your whole body weight sideways just to stand without feeling a pull downhill.
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| Unload all the dead weight for another try ^^ |
A lot of locals on motorbikes with pillion wanted to help and some slowed down only to realized their own mistakes. Luckily their pillion could jump down and immediately help push their bike up hill while the rider screamed the engine all the way to the max.
Two boys stopped and after somehow stabilizing their bike on the slope they came to help me. One of them had the confident to bring it up for me to the top of the hill. I really needed the help and my idea was to have two of us push the bike up while one person ride it screaming the engine in first gear. Still communication barrier was evident with my basic Thai so I had to leave Bluey in their experimental hands.
Lifting Bluey up took 3 of us and then it took all three of us to turn Bluey around, now facing back the way I came, downhill. One of the boys prepared to take Bluey back downhill preparing to restart the climb. The other guy and me took all the luggage walking up hill.
We saw the boy making a long head start speeding to the maximum trying to climb this super steep obstacle hill only to fail at the exact same spot I had crashed. He however had the idea and luck of no oncoming vehicle to turn Bluey around before it was too late, avoiding becoming stuck like a sitting duck(me). So back down hill again and try and try again.
I figured he would be alright since once we got all the stuff at the top of the hill, if needed we could go back down and push the bike up. But as we headed down he came up blaring the engine with two feet paddling the ground running. He barely made it to the top and luckily too for that last stunt would have ended badly if the leg assisted powered Bluey were to stop dead. For two legs on the ground means no back brakes.
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| The Two Local Boys which Stopped to Help me Bring Bluey up the Steep Slope |
I thank them .... I could not be more grateful and while they offered to ride Bluey all the way to Doi Angkang while I become pillion on their bike, I felt it was not right and that I have to see this through.
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| First real Break after the Fall |
The last 20km to Doi Angkang was filled with crazy imaginary thoughts in my head. What if there was another impasse like the one before. I would be stuck between many obstacle never ever to get off this mountain. Many times after, I had to climb in first gear and I was starting to think that while climbing mountains was one of the most exhilarating and challenging thing to do, it was also a very huge risk every time I head to a mountain which has very little people travelling. Luckily it was new year eve and somehow there was so many local tourist headed to Doi Angkang.
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| Beautiful Scenery Ride up to Doi Angkang |
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| The Vast Landscape of Mountains & Valleys on the way to Doi Angkang |
When I finally reached the camp grounds marked on google map, the place was not a camp ground. Searching other parts of Doi Angkang I found the alleged campground with standard tent rental at 225 baht. There was no more tent for rent ... all rented out and the camp ground was so damn packed with people I wondered how was this even possible or even considered camping since it looked like a hundred people or more was there. I did not even wanted to imagine how bad the single toilet in the campground would be like.
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| Campsite is overcrowded on New Year's Eve - Doi Angkang |
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| Mass Campsite in Doi Angkang due to New Year's Eve |
Strike 2 ... and at this point I was thinking when will the strike 3 comes because I know that jinks happens in threes.
3pm
A decision to make but it was really a no brainier since I had no place to stay in Doi Angkang so I had to go downhill or risk freezing to death at night. Whipped out my phone to book a place at Thaton which was 50km away. Doable I thought trying to reassure myself. Google navigation said it would only take 1 hour.
The road up was not the same as the road down. I choose to go forward so I had no idea how the road was like going downhill. Riding around the top of Doi Angkang it was ok but at the beginning of the downhill was a village and the roads were blocked by police. Seamed like they had a restriction on when the road could be used. Close by 6pm it said so I just drove through the gaps since no one really stopped me.
Immediately after the roadblock was the downhill, and I was greeted by dirt road. Oh f*cking gravel.
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| Gravel Road Downhill with poor visibility due to Clouds in the sky |
I was immediately reminded of the gravel ride in Cambodia from Sihanoukville to Koh Kong and I knew this was going to be a very hard downhill. Halfway through downhill I knew there was no turning back because the downhill ride was as steep as the initial uphill previously that I fell. There was only one way out of this and that was downhill. Brakes were precious and every chance I get I release the brakes to get some rest, least I overheat the pads and all was good even with every little slide giving my heart a skip, I was somehow still in control.
The gravel road with many pot holes means at times I brake and skidded but it was those minor skids, less than a second and with a release of the brakes, the wheel turn and I regain control. Cambodia dirt road experience was helping me with this downhill.
The final stretch and I saw the last 100m of dirt road but there was a fork and I wondered which way was I suppose to go. Super focus and concentration forgotten for a while, while I ponder on directions instead on the downhill ride was all it took.
I realized too late I was going the wrong way and tried to turn right instead which somehow succeeded but was in the wrong gear and trying to kick into the right gear while going downhill cause my front wheel to skid and this time I fall right side. It was slow enough that I saw it coming and I could react fast enough to get my legs out of the way side stepping while the bike went down sideways but the slope was so steep I was facing forward and I did a full 360 somersault rolling like a ball with my body. I was lucky that was all and did not roll uncontrollably all the way down.
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| Second fall in the same day coming downhill from Doi Angkang |
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| Unload Bluey and wait for passerby for help |
Three times today ,,,, somehow I felt relieve. The jinks had run its course and I had survived with minimal damage. Bluey still runs, I had a small scratch on my knees through the jeans although the jeans did not rip, and my right wrist got a minor sprain but still good enough to function fully.
Standard works again and I unloaded Bluey of all the luggage and waited for help. One guy with his wife passed and he had to go all the way downhill to park the bike before walking back up to help me.
Together we lifted Bluey on that slope and luckily Bluey was sideways. While he carefully hold Bluey, I went around the bike to kick it into neutral then with sign language, he took the front while I took the back and we slowly walked Bluey downhill. It was a short walk of 100m but our feet were slipping on the ground and many times I wondered how we did not slide and fell again on that slope.
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| Local To the Rescue ... |
I remember once saying this to another traveler. You want something to happen for if nothing happen the travel can be monotonous after a while, but while you wish for an adventure with exciting stories, you also wish that it is just the right amount, enough to feel alive but not too much that it causes permanent damage.
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| Riding through orchards towards Thaton |
Traveled on : Dec 2018
#doiangkang #accidentonaroadtrip #roadtripproblems
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