Recharge in Chaing Rai and Meeting up with the Gang

The thoughts that I would have 2 nights in Chiang Rai to rest up and recharge was a mental bliss that I did not know I needed till I had checked in the hotel and had a good hot shower. Still it was rest days full with erends to run but knowing that I dont need to run a leg was a good mind stimulant.

Got Bragge washed and clean up proper, oil changed and went hunting for a McDonald, comfort food for the chill day and a foot massage each night. Having two night in Chiang Rai did leave some temptation on the side for for once I was looking into the windows of nice premium quality grass. Its been a while .... a real while and now Thailand was legal and nothing really beats a good rest up with a smoke to slow down. For me its always slow down. I know some people goes happy or high or energetic but for me, it has always been slow down.

Bragge Bike Wash at Sumo Bike and Car Wash Chiang Mai

Bragge Oil Change in Chaing Rai

The Pork Burger in Thailand - you cant get this in Malaysia or Singapore 

Have you met TED ? 

Somehow I resisted the temptation walking past shops and just taking photos, but night market shopping in Chiang Rai and a little turtle caught my eye. Long story short, I bought the turtle and a few more bunnies for gift but somehow the turtle became a mascot throughout China and is now a precious sentimental trinket.

Toys Shopping in Chaing Rai Night Market - Hand Made Crochet stuffed Dolls 

Turtle has joined the Ride 

The Gang was riding up from Chiang Mai stopping by for lunch and heading to the recon point of Chiang Kong. Group message and I would meet them at the restaurant for lunch then ride together to the border town of Mae Sot before looping down to Chiang Kong for the night. I was nervous and excited at the same time. While excited to meet the Gang, I was nervous on how the dynamic of the group was going to be since I am so used to being solo.

Met up with the GS Gang in Chaing Rai

Its only 10 days .... its not forever .... like a mantra for the many times I had to travel with people I meet along the way, while I enjoy the company (hence excited) I am always lured back to the solo travel.

Met the GS Gang at the lunch place and quick introduction was made while each focus on their meal we quickly went back on the back to ride from Chiang Rai to Mae Sot. First ride with the big bikes GS Gang and I was left in the dust. No one hanged back, no one paired up with me and riding with the group very fast become as if I was riding solo. In my mind, this is not too bad actually and within minutes adjusted my pace and decided not to chase them and go to the destination with my own pace stopping when I want to for breaks and photos and eventually catch up to them at the designated check point.

Mae Sot - Border of Thailand and Myanmar 

Golden Triangle - Thailand Side 

That night accomodation in Chinag Khong was also arranged by Faz and I felt the small difference going into this tour, the power of money. While I do spend a lot on travel, I have no issue skimping of a few things and staying in hostels sharing room or cost. The cheapest room was 700 baht, a very nice hotel along the riverside of Chiang Khong, It was the most expensive stay per night in my whole time in Thailand, in fact when I was averaging 450 baht a night accomodation. The rest of the big bike gang went for the 1000 baht for the top floor view.

That night in Chiang Kong the Kapchai Gang of three arrive late into the early morning as one of their gang was bringing his wife which flew into Chiang Mai but had a flight delay from Air Asia. They end up arriving at 1am but all was ok. Two Honda EX5 and one Yamaha NVX 155, for a brief moment, I felt a tinge envy that I did not bring Bluey instead to this trip. Later on during the ride in China changed my mind and Bragge was the perfect ride to bring for China.

Out of Comfort Thailand - the Group Ride begins to China ... 

Traveled on: Jun 2023

Onwards from Doi Phu Kha to Chiang Kham top Phayao to Chiang Rai

From Doi Phu Kha mountain top I headed down to Pua, about 30km ride and without much things to do or see in Pua, I carried on towards Chiang Kham. The goal for the day was to visit the very one and fully teak wood temple in Chiang Kham then turn south going towards Phayao for the night.

Between Pua and Chiang Kham was Route 1148 which unexpectedly a very curvy and scenic route that was just a lovely ride going mini bends after bend up and down. Other than the super hot weather that seams to be burning, it was a beautiful ride. Also coz now I have an inkling idea of how to find Route stickers for the bike, I can now google the word “route” and see what pops up along the way.

Route 1148 Cafe Phayau

Bikers Stop at Route 1148 Cafe Phayau

The View at Route 1148 Cafe 

Hence I found Route 1148 cafe Phayou. Lovely pit stop point even without the stickers. Just at the midpoint intersection between Nan and Phayou province, the cafe was situated on the cliff edge overlooking the plantation at the mountain foothills which was looked like a dreamlike fairy tale story. I got the Route 1148 stickers, a good cup of iced coffee and a long needed rest stop.

Then suddenly came Mark III. GPX Legend 250 Twin III ride up coming from opposite direction and parked next to Bragge. I could not help myself smiling. Walked out to great the rider and took a picture of the awesome bike but with my baby Thai languge mastery our conversation was limited to just watching the scenary and watching the two bikes like proud owners.

Local Thai Plate GPX 250 Twin III 

Onwards it was to Chiang Kham, paid a short visit to the temple and onwards again to Phayou. When I reached Phayou and riding around the city, I saw the thunder storm coming from afar and decided it was not worth staying the night in Phayou. I was exhausted actually for since Cha-am I had no rest day. 

Wat Nantaram - The Big Teakwood Temple of Chiang Kham Town

Wat Nantaram

Wat Nantaram

I was practically hopping from day to day each day covering around 400km on average distance. After the last night camping in Doi Phu Kha sleeping on hard ground, (I forget sometimes how old I am after all), I push on toward Chiang Rai. Even with the additional drag to reach Chiang Rai, I knew I would have two days to fully rest and reduce the mental burden of packing and moving the next day.

Traveled on : Jun 2023

Onwards to Preah and Nan and the Second Main Goal of Doi Phu Kha

From Route 12 Khao Kho coffee shop, it was a decision time ... to Uttradit or to Preah for the night. Uttradit had a boat crossing over the Srikit lake while Preah didin had much but was of a longer distance and cheaper accomodation. In the end I decided on Preah as the accomodation was not only cheap but it was in a old teak wood house with intricate carvings which looks like a historical building. Plus side to Preah was that the journey will go through small roads in outskirts Uttradit as well. I reach quite late and for the first time riding at night in Thailand as well and reach closed to 8pm.

Go INN Preah Old Town 

Next day was the easy ride to Nan and staying in the hostel. Since I had time, I thought of doing the Si Nan National Park loop as a 4 hours journey. End up going though many curvy roads in the country side only to end up at the starting point of the loop and decided to call it a day and headed back to Nan. Evening by the Nan river was a supprise with the locals practicing dragon boat up and down the river. After dinner was laundry duty and then back to the hostel to sleep.

Riding Around Nan 

Local Practicing Dragon Boat in Nan River 

The next day from Nan it was a short ride of 100 km to Doi Phu Kha National Park. The loop is usually done by going through Nan-Pua-Doi Phu Kha National Park then loop back through Bo Klua but I decided to do it the other way around. The ride was quiet with barely anyone else around and the viewpoints along the way was making the journey of 100km impossible to reach since I was stopping so much just to admire it. The roads was spectacular grade with beautiful smooth tarmac along lovely winding corners.

The Viewpoint along Doi Phu Kha Loop 

Curvy Roads along Doi Phu Kha Loop

The View Point along Doi Phu Kha Loop

At Bo Kluea was a short stop to check out the rock salt well which is a so called tourist attraction. Interesting to find a salt well deep inland in mountaines area which was a first for me. Entrance is free and mostly locals earns from salt scrub massages and suvinour that tourist buys.

Salt Pit at Bo Kluea

Salt Pit - Bo Kluea

The Salt Pit - Bo Kluea 

Doi Phu Kha National Park entrance was 200 baht for Forginer + 20 baht for motorbike and 30 baht to camp with own tent. Tonight I camp alone at the campsite, with no other visitors here Its pretty quiet to a fault. Facilities are basics with lights around the campsite, clean water and toilet with cold showers. My trusty multifuel burner still holding up and cooking simple maggie mee with baked beans for dinner.

Doi Phu Kha 

Doi Phu Kha National Park Entrance 

Doi Phu Kha National Park 

Doi Phu Kha Camping Site 

My Campsite at Doi Phu Kha 

The national park has no reception. That was told to me at the entrance when I signed in. Throughout the day setting camp, cooking then washing up I did not receive any signal at all but suddenly around 7pm I got full bar and manage the customary call at night to mom. 

Traveled on: May 2023

Petchabun 5 Tier Buddha Temple & a Hunt for Route 12 Sticker

One of the main reason for aiming and plotting my route this round so forcefully for Petchabun district was to see the famous five tier buddha temple, Wat Phra That Pha Sorn Kaew. Back in 2018 when I was really roaming Thailind in detail, I missed out the central spine area and this was what I missed out unknowingly until the trip was done.

Wat Phra That Pha Sorn Keaw - Petchabun Thailand 

First stop aim was temple, but before that, along the way out from Khao Kho was to find a bike shop to check out Bragge chain and general condition due to the mud ride and fall yesterday. I stopped at this bike workshop in Khao Kho called 71 Bike that was pretty cool and looked like a niche handling cafe racer modification shop of all sorts of big bikes. I got Bragge throughly clean up espescially the chain and re adjusted the brake peg which was somehow dented due to the fall making it now higher from the foot rest.

Fixing up Bragge at Khao Kho 

While the good guys were doing good work with bragge, I scouted the shop and saw this beautiful Yamaha 400 cc classic bike. The owner could speak a bit of english and he explained that this was the limited edition Yamaha series which only produce 500 peices in the world. The tank colour looks like the Yamaha classic guitar and the special serial mark on the bike was 71 which matches his plate number 71 and also his shop which was called 71 Bike shop. Pretty cool and unexpected insight when I am not expecting it.

71 Bike Shop - Khao Kho

Limited Edition Yamaha 400cc Classic 

I notice quite a few stickers on his window which was from all touring riders around the world. One particular sticker cought my eye which was Khao Kho Route 12 sticker. I was already riding the Khao Kho loop and asked him where to get this sticker. He did not sell it but told me of the coffee shop which does down the road.

Wat Phra Sorn Kaew looked like a tibetian style temple and really rich. The view simply breathtaking, the architecture and micro detail could make one stay there for days without ever getting tired of just looking. I spent around 2 hours there just soaking in the ambiance.

Wat Phra That Pha Sorn Kaew - Petchabun 5 Tier Buddha Temple

I timed my arrival at the temple around noon where I could video call mom and show her the temple and let her pray through the video call for recovery. Sometimes pictures does not tell the story, sometimes video also does not tell the stories but these days there are live video calls ... the next best thing from being there in person I would think.

After temple visit it was a mandatory stop to hunt for the sticker. Sliding off the main road to the coffee shop and I saw a group of Malaysia bike plates. I could only have a big smile on my face and chatted up with the group a bit. Big bikes ... touring thailand for a week and doing a whooping 1200km per day. Not much development from there and while getting a coffee at the shop I kept scouting around where the sticker would be sold and saw none. Finally I asked one of the bikers if he knows and it was down a small little stairs tucked just behind the coffee counter and viola, another cafe with a view and upon asking, stickers of Route 12 obtained.

Route 12 Coffee Shop - Khao Kho

While most riders going on tours from Malaysia or Singapore would be collecting stickers along all the famous route markers, this was actually my first time coming to know about it. So Khao Kho route 12 was my first sticker and hence starts my riding stickers collection hunt.


Traveled on May 2023

Lopburi to Khao Kho & First Fall for Bragge

From Lopburi it was a decent ride to Khao Kho. After 5 days of flat riding all over Thailand I was happy to see some mountains. Khao Kho was suppose to be the 1st place for camping as well so I was a bit more excited.

View from Khao Kho Royal Palace Viewpoint

I reached Khao Kho easy enaugh to the marked main camping site. Pretty basic by the side of the road with toilet but thats it. I was quite early so I thought to go riding around to see the sights if there was a better spot. I wouldnt mind spending 100 to 200 baht for paid camping site if there is a chance for food and charging pot really. Detour to see the Khao Kho Palace which looks like a Iban longhouse and then the storm came and I got stuck in the hut shelter for two hours.

Khao Kho Main Free Public Camping Site 

Khao Kho Main Public Free Camping Site 

Khao Kho Royal Palace Carpark 

Taking Shelter from the rain 

Two hours was a long time for me to research where to go for paid camping. So once the rain stopped I started riding to one of the camping spot I thought would be good. Road became small road to path to dirt road. Due to the rain the dirt road also became a mud path. Funny thing thou, I actually reached the marked camping spot through all the hard mud road without a hitch. The camping ground however had no one manning it, nobody home ... so I had to find another pronto.

Nobody Home at Campsite - Khao Kho

I turned around and thats where the problem started ... going downhill on mud is no joke. I went pretty slow .... almost walking pace but the bike was heavy with all my luggage and throtle control is not very good yet making the back wheel spin too fast in the mud. At one point the back wheel slipped and the bike tilted beyond my balance so I just let it fall to the right. Almost a stationary dumb fall and pretty slow so nothing was damage.

Tried to pick up the bike myself but alas it was too heavy for me. Walked downhill calling out to all the private camping ground building but no one was around. The thrid one had a guy and somehow I manage to convince him to follow me to help pick up the bike. Thailand people are really friendly and helpful. He walked with me back to the bike and helped lifted the bike then I was on it again slowly navigating the muddy road down hill.

Bragge First Fall - Khao Kho 

Great Help from Local to pick up Bragge 

I stopped at the guys camping ground thinking I should just spend the night here as a thank you. The guy call his friend a girl that could speak english and she told me it was 3000 baht. What ?? that is a crazy amount way out of my budget. I had to apologize to them repeatedly. I could not afford it I told them and they were quite friendly telling it was not an issue and that I could rest there first before moving on. I thank them many times and requested a photo with my savior then I was off again downhill back to the gravel road before hitting cement road ...

Looking from one camping ground to another and most of them had no one around. I ended up back to good road and found a very nice huts + camping ground but when I asked for the price they quoted me 850 baht for the hut and 250 baht for the camping. I bargained the camping to 150 baht and all was good. Borrowed a hose to wash out Bragge from all the mud and stones hoping the chain would still be ok since it was globs of muds sticking to it. I could only imagine how much mud must have got into the front spokret so I kept washing and pushing the bike to rotate the chain and washing again.

Paid Camping became Paid Hut - 500 Baht per night Khao Kho

Cooking my Dinner for the Night in Khao Kho

Once that was done, the guy asked me if I wanted the Hut for 500 baht .... a big smile on his face and with my exhauseted journey and fall, it was like a big temptation to have a bed instead of setting up tent and sleeping on wet grass. 500 baht it was .... and now I am all settle down.

I hope Bragge did not take too much damage with the mud track ... need to go for a good wash tomorrow and find some workshop to oil the shit out of the chain.

Luckily I took the offer and paid 500 baht for the one bed bunglo at Khao Kho. Somewhere around 3am a huge thundershower came down and absolutely drench everything. I slept even more soundly with good cool weather and nice rain sounds on the roof top.

Traveled on : May 2023