Failed Detour to Doi Charlie

I decided while riding somewhere along the way after the successful border run at Plei Can towards Kon Tum to visit Doi Charlie. Found it on google maps and pictures looked nice with a spine road cutting along the mountain ridge. 

Doi Charlie was a war monument and base on the few reviews that said road were ok so long it was dry season gave me a booster since it was super hot and sunny.

It was only 11km to Doi Charlie from where I was when I decided to do the detour instead of going stright to Kon Tum. Off the main road and the road were a little gravelly and broken which was nothing to worry about and seam doable. 

The Begining to Plantation Riding towards Doi Charlie

Checked the map and I was going the wrong way. Double back onto the trail and the road become a dirtpath and then became a weird offroad adventure ride.

I soon abandon the plan to reach Doi Charlie once I saw a few steap climb with super broken crevice which looked like a mini canyon. I decided to back track and go along the gravel road till I could join back to the main road. 

Only 5km in .... and already wasted so much time battling the offroad. This is where I decided to give up Doi Charlie. Steep Raods plus broken crevies ahead

Still a Beautiful Detour though the countryside

The ride was good for a long time through the bad gravel and suddenly without realizing I was back in the forest dirtpath with the path getting worst every minute.

By this time I was already so far into the path that backtracking would take me another hour. I had also barely traveled more than 5km. Mental fatigue built up fairly quickly and I was really oppose to backtracking all the way. 

Suddenly I saw a good road up ahead but as always and as feared, there would be a crazy pass somewhere at the end point which would prove to be my downfall.

Contemplating the Steep Downhill ....

A super steep downhill where if I commit to the ride, would be a one way trip. Either get down in one peice of fall down. There was no way I could stop on that slope which looked like a 20% incline. Even walking down had a chance for slipping and falling down halfway. The good road was the tempatation and by this time I was a bit crazy.

Down the hill keeping to lowest gear and keep reminding myself to not insticttively clutch in and not to over break to lock the wheels and cause a slide. I rolled down alrite and the last few meters went pretty fast which feels like a roller coaster but I made it without a scratch. 

Made it down the steep slope in one piece ....

All those training with Bluey going up and down dirtpath road falling over and over again had paid off but I would not do it again if I had the choice.

Stupid detour to Doi Charlie failed and cost me 2 hours whacking through the plantation road trying to get out. It was a direct mainraod from then on to Kon Tum where I would rest for the next two nights.

Traveled on: Jan 2024

Border Crossing Visa Run at Cua Khau Quoc Te Bo Y(Vietnam) to Phou Keua Border (Laos)

Plei Can for the night at a very lovely hotel for VND 250,000 which is actually for two people but once again I paid for one. This is where solo traveling cost more than a couple, the inability to share accomodation. Then again everything else seams to be cheaper solo.

Cua Khau Quoc Te Bo Y (Vietnam) Border Post

The next morning I did the planned Border run to Laos. Base on the advise given, this border was the friendly one and less busy so although I was still a bit early having another 10 days before my visa expiry, I thought why not and went for it.

Ride the bike about 2km to the border then parked the bike near a food stall and walked over to the border. I took all my bags with me not willing to take the risk of being stuck without my stuff. If I got stuck at the Laos side, the only thing I would lose would the USD 500 deposit for the bike rental.

Initially I wanted to enquire the officers if the U-turn run was ok before proceding but the lack of english spoken became a deterant. Stamp out of Vietnam and begin a 1km walk over to the Laos border. 

Selfie at Border Marker between Laos & Vietnam

At the border was a group of Thai plate bikes doing a tour of Laos and Vietnam. Could not get much infomation out of them but bassicly they had a guide for Vietnam costing them THB 38,000 for 10 days which includes bike service, hotel and food. 

Thai Biker Gang Crossing from Vietnam to Laos 

Laos Phou Keua Border Immigration Post

Stamp into Laos and the Immigration Officer asked me where I was headed.

Where you go

I go back .... * points back to Vietnam *

Not much was ask after and he just stamped me in. Went around the building and this time stamped out of Laos and slowly make my walk back to Vietnam.

At Vietnam side of the border, the officer seamed to have a grumpy face. No one in line and he had to on the computer, pretend to dust off some book ledger and finally took my passport for processing. 

Halfway through the slow tinkering with the computer, the officer took out his wallet and looked me in the eye with a dead serius face. He took out VND 50,000 note from his wallet to show me and I got the hint right away.

I slide a VND 50,000 though the counter window which he pocketed and finally gave me a big smile. After that the computer seams to have speed up and very fast my passport was stamped in. Welcome to Vietnam .... again.

Back to Vietnam at Cua Khau Quoc Te Bo Y Immigration Post

Can you see Zuki ? 

I was not relax yet and the last part after exiting the immigration office was to see if the bike was still there. It was, so all was good and strapping back all my stuff onto the bike, It was time to ride.

Traveled on: Jan 2024

A Frightening Scare While Riding to Plei Can from Hoi An

From Hoi An I hit the boring road till I could leave the main highway of Vietnam QL1A which was heavily used and finally pull off to the right off DT611 changing heading for inland mountain region. The ride was ok, roads were countryside of a humble kind where the ramshack clobblered together houses were scattered within paddy fields and paddy fields.

Off to the Inland Mountains of Vietnam

It was planting season it seams over here between Hoi An and Plei Can. I could see many farmers carefully tilling their ground and spraying medicine and throwing out seeds. It was not a scenic sight but it was a real place where I ride by encouraged by the little kids which gave me three basic reactions. A smile, A wave and A middle finger and usually a combination of those three.

The weirdest one would be A smile with a middle finger coz it felt really warm and not hostile. Kids must have picked them up thinking its a greating for f*cking idiot forginers riding around the whole of Vietnam.

The road quickly became horrible just like that and construction road plus few rainy days before means mud tracks which is always scary for me. 

Bad Construction Roads and the Snake Bump just before that little mount

I went as slow or as fast as I dared but somewhere between focusing on trucks, mud, stones and all the chaotic shit going around, I was glad when there was a small stright patch of good road and was just about to speed up when suddenly a snake decided to dash/swim accross the road.

Arrrgghhhh ... was my reaction for it was a long snake around 3 meters from my distorted memory. Both my legs went up in the air affraid that the snake might bite me and panic gripped me when I was not sure if to stop and let the snake pass or turn to avoid the snake and risk a fall with the snake so near.

I ended up just riding through the snake like a hose on the ground and the snake being ridden over did not turn to bite me but dash/swim even more faster to cross the road to the next bush.

I definately did not stop to try and take any photos ... Keep riding and calm myself down. What the f*ck just happened. I once heard a story from a fellow traveller long long time ago about him riding over a snake when I was somewhere in Thailand when riding bluey back a few years ago and now I have the exzact same story .... legs up in the air and over the snake bump. Crazy.

Boring Beautiful Mountain Roads

Boring Beautiful Mountain Roads to Plei Can

The rest of the ride was much better once I manage to cut through to the main HCM road inland. Lovely boring mountain pass after mountain pass going up and down untill I reached Plei Can for the night.

Traveled on: Jan 2024

Re-Visiting Hoi An after 10 Years

Hoi An has changed from what I remembered since 2013, 10 Years ago. The quiet little town is now fully touristic and I can’t tell if people come here to see Hoi An or to see cheap suviniour shops. 

I fall into the same trap in a way, its hard to ignore the trinkets shops as they are attractive to lure people to buy them or just for brousing.

Touristic Hoi An

Root Carvings - Hoi An

Lantern Making - Hoi An

New trend was also in play, cooking classes, lantern making classes and coconut boat tour was very popular among the tourist. I decided to just enjoy the facilities a touristic little town provides. 

Laundy, cafe, massage and strolling night markets. No point being disapointed, just have to enjoy the phase and place as the time changes.

My memory could almost trick me into thinking the old lady selling candles by the river was the same one I saw 10 years ago but I can’t be sure. This time I light one for the memories and took a photo for next time.

Wishing Candles - Hoi An

Two days to settle back into the motopacker mindset in Hoi An and once the sunshine weather hits the next morning, I hit the road again going inland and back towards the mountains. This time around instead of trying to see everything possible at one time, I kinda just laid back and see a few things and ride on to the next town.

I am not sure if I can say I have done Vietnam proper however seeing all the tourist attraction shit might not be the goal anymore for traveling. These days its the motion that count and not the sights.

Traveled on: Jan 2024

Danang – A Holiday from my Holiday

Danang would be what I use to call a Holiday from your Holiday. I met with Ram which had fly into Danang from Singapore for New Year Eve countdown celebration. 

Few weeks back as he tracked me on Facebook, a message was sent to me to randevu in Danang to party and have some fun hence the packed itenary just to reach Danang for New Year Eve.

Vibrant Danang City

I try not to write much about friends in trip when their in a circle of my other friends. It just weird and dificult to write. Hence this post might read a bit weird and full of blanks holes which don’t make sense but that’s the way it will be.

I have always wanted to see the Golden Hands in Danang. Every search of touristic things to do in Danang would end up with the famous Golden Hands with its amazing views and intagramable unforgetable picture. It’s a cheesy tourist attraction I knew but then again I was on a holiday from my holiday so why not.

Bad Visibility at the Golden Hands of Bana Hills

We went up to Bana Hills searching for the Golden Hand and what I did not realized was that the ticket price of VND 900,000 was actually part of an amusement theme park. Golden Hands was like a sculpted decoration for the themepark and somehow every tourist seeking that photo memory gets sold a ticket to a massive themepark.

I have to say ... amazing marketing gimmic ... Bravo.

Indoor Themepark at Bana Hills 

Wet and Cold at Bana Hills 

Wet and Cold and Fog at Bana Hills 

Our luck was as usual horrible and it was raining the whole day with thick fog. The anticipated, expected and highly sought view of Danang Bay at the Golden Hands was crushed by bad weather. Everything was also drenched wet and cold. We all agreed that F*ck Bana Hills and its not worth it to come again just to get a photo.

Between drinking away at numerous unmarked open air watering holes in Danang and pure tourist shopping and massage, Danang was really a beautiful city to enjoy for a couple days. 

Nam Danh Seafood Restaurant 

Son Tra Night Market Danang

I had a few hours alone in Danang and that was quickly filled up with dayriding to sightsee Marble Mountain and Son Tra Peninsular but before I knew it, the pull of Casino in Danang draw me in and suck out a few hundred USD.

Marble Mountain - Danang

Son Tra Peninsular - Danang

New Year Eve was a chill hanging out at one of the roof top bars in Danang watching the massive party crowd somehow survive on the streets dancing the night away.

New Year Eve 2023 Party @ Danang

New Year Eve Party 2023 @ Danang

Traveled on: Dec 2023

A little Glimpse of Hue

I reached Hue last night soaking wet and beyond a good hot shower and a warm bed, I did not bother to even walk around Hue with the shitty weather still raining away. The next morning with myself being fully rejuvinated, thought that I should not waste the opportunity to explore Hue.

I had time albiet a little. Today was to get to Danang but that was a short 2 hour ride away and I had a good 5 hours to explore Hue in the morning I thought. I decided to talk a walk in the drizzling rain to see Hue.

Old Imperial City Hue

Old Imperial City Hue

Old Imperial City Hue 

Hue old Imperial city was a square box and one of the very few preserved heritage in Vietnam. I however forgot that I was running low on money. I had at most less than VND 300,000 left from all the rat scrimping since Mai Chau. My friend was suppose to replenish me in Danang but then here I was in Hue walking in the rain all the way to the Imperial City forgetting that I had no money to buy the entrance Ticket.

Just a Photo then and a mental note that Hue is to be returned in the future for a proper exploration. Cursing myself it was time to hit the road for Danang regardless of the weather. I was feeling good, going to meet a friend to party for the New Year Eve. 

Hue City

Hue City

At the least I thought, I get to do the famous Hai Van pass. Turns out it was really foggy and rainy so I got chill bites and soak to the underwear just going over Hai Van pass. No view, barely any visibility and while the road was good, not enjoyable in the condition that was present.

After the pass I could see Danang. Its time for I call a Holiday from your Holiday.

Hai Van Pass

Hai Van Pass 

Traveled on: Dec 2023

Phong Nha to Ke Sanh & Surendered detour to Hue

So with just enaugh funds to get by another day I started the journey in the morning to Khe Sanh. Barely out of Phong Nha and the micro drizzle could be felt. Thinking that it was just the early morning effect where moisture was very high in the mountain jungles I carried on through the windy scenic route to Khe Sanh.

Phong Nha to Ke Sanh - Ho Chin Minh Trail

Raw Tropical Forest along Phong Nha to Ke Sanh - Ho Chin Minh Trail

50km into the road and the it became a proper drizzle, then sunshine for a few momments then back to cloudy. Visibility in the mountain was so bad that I could barely see 20m ahead. Online guide did warn that this beautiful strecth of Ho Chin Minh road is to be only done when weather is good. I was about 25 % into the journey and decided to give it up due to the bad weather which did not seam to be letting up anytime soon.

Bad Weather along Phong Nha to Ke Sanh Ho Chin Minh Trail

Bad Weather plus a little detour 

So the next available junction out, I took a detour giving up on Khe Sanh. Hit stright for the coastal road and stopped for dinner where a simple meal became a chore to finish half a chicken. I had no idea it would be half a chicken meal. Recalculating destination, I decided to head for Hue directly. Danang would be too far to arrive within the day so Hue as it was destined to be.

When you accidentally order half a chicken .... 

Coastal Road to Hue 

Coastal Road to Hue

The ride along the coastal road was boring. Stright good roads which one could speed up but then the view was lousy as all the fields were barren. Last 80km to Hue it started raining lightly. It was not the kind of rain like in Malaysia where you have no choice but to find shelter instead it was those very light rain that you barely feel it slowly seeping through the jackets and jeans.

By the time I reached Hue, all 5 layers of my clothes were wet. I also had almost no money on me. The next day was the destination ride to Danang to meet up a friend that was flying into Danang for a New Year Eve holiday and he became my money mule to bring me some hard SGD cash. Vietnam is a cash country, with ATM withdrawal really sucking up huge fees.

I became a cheapskate for the last few days just to save that few dollars .... thinking back, I sometimes cant understand why I do these things.

Traveled on: Dec 2023